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I dont see the pics :(



hey mine worked :)

I see you have < by your picture make sure you use the "[" instead of < the string looks like this... one of these [ then img src="http://blah blah on the web somewhere.com/somepic.jpg" and another one of these ] hope this helps :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I am not typing in the < > thangs, I read the thing that said use[ ] but I have had like three posts disappear since yesterday, and I HATE the whole stinking computer world and the crappy unreliable products that they release in f****ked up unreliable form.

Hey is there any of those Honda things that have conventional struts, those upper ball joints look awfully teeeeeenie and the huge "alien movie" knuckle looks heavy and prone to tweaking. Are they all like that?

(You know where this is going dontcha? I've been with double A arm cars since 1980 but there are light and strong on the SAABs, gotta say something about conventional struts, aint great but simple and usually sturdy.)












John Vanlandingham
 

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>
>hey Garrett, I have tried all sorts of things, shame it's
>such a pain in the a¤¤.

It is not hard at all, view your picture in a browser. Cut and paste the link into your post. That is all there is to it. You had your image name wrong and I fixed it for you.

:+ Jim :+
 

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At this point I dont care about tred pattern, but I am interested in those 155-R-13's in the middle... (for the Metro, not the XR)

Any rough idea on price? (I know it will depend on shipping, but you must have some sort of idea)

Matt Lovell
 

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>Hey is there any of those Honda things that have
>conventional struts, those upper ball joints look awfully
>teeeeeenie and the huge "alien movie" knuckle looks heavy
>and prone to tweaking. Are they all like that?

Some Hondas do use struts but I am not sure which models. My Accord uses this same front suspension system and aside from the upper ball joint and the radius arm rubber berrings it has been pleanty strong. The problem with the upper ball is the berring part is plastic and gets hammered out. I drive hard and treat the car badly and so only get about 5 or 6 events before they are to sloppy but that is a limit of stock class.

The rear multi link suspensions have a long spindly arm going to the upper ball joint and that got bent on our first full event. We reinforced the crap out of it and have had no trouble since. BTW it bent early in the event on a very hard berm "kiss" but we had no further problems with it.

Bradney A. Boli
Over Exposure Racing
Honda Accord #311
 

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Same here.

Any idea of price for 175-14 and shipping to the East Coast.

Do they make 185-14?

TIA,

Carlos.
 

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The first one, mainly because it's available in 14"...any idea on compounds, directionals, or other tread pattern options such as mud, grass, snow? Are these tires from Finland?

(PS - I had to right click on red X, then choose "Show Picture", to get it to come up, but it's okay, now)

CP
Desert Storm Rally
A2 Jetta #305
 

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Used 15" Michelin M4s in have worked well for me on my Volvo but I'm choosing not to afford new ones. The other tire I like is the old Bridgestone RE39 in 185/70-15 (a very open tread that has worked very well on loose stuff that I find as a back-of-the-pack driver). When I get around to buying new I'll try the Yokohamas or the Kumhos.

George Thompson
1982 Volvo 242 Performance Rally Toy
 

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Can you really tell much from the pattern? I dont know, but it seems like you would have to actually drive the tires to see any differences. I'm falling back on my motorcycle experience where short of special tires for the two extremes of hardpack nearly concrete (short knobs, close spacing) and deep sand/mud (tall knobs. wide spacing) there is little difference in performance from pattern, moreso in the carcas flex properties.

As I have absolutely ZERO experience with rally tires I could be completely wrong in my comparison to dirtbike tires. Possibly the higher weight car tires have to carry and therefore the stiffer carcas's, and the mostly flat tread surface from edge to edge, makes tread patter more a factor?
 

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400 flat to crest
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
>>
>>hey Garrett, I have tried all sorts of things, shame it's
>>such a pain in the a¤¤.
>
>It is not hard at all, view your picture in a browser. Cut
>and paste the link into your post. That is all there is to
>it. You had your image name wrong and I fixed it for you.
>
>:+ Jim :+

thanks Jim, but there is some bug in this laptop or somewhere.
















John Vanlandingham
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Well folks the carcass or casing is the heart of the tire and in my book, the No.1 priorty is reliability, strength. And that's in the carcass where that comes from.
Predictability is second, and in radial tires again its the carcass construction, how flexy OR NOT the sidewalls are, that gives you the predicability or not.

The issues of Grip/longevity/price is the hard balance act.

There are some tread patterns which are time tested and the Michelin L and Pirelli SM are clearly favorites, and have worked good in everything except slimy clay and snow (even if I have set some top 5 national times in deep snow with L4s, it was a visibility thing.)

The idea of these tires is they should have a price advantage, and since they have a (copy of) known tread pattern,and since we can have them NEW, then we can have PRETTY GOOD GRIP, and if we buy the ones made on rally tire carcasses, we get points 1 and 2.

Brian, rally tire are so cool, at least the Michelins I have used are, they are so good I'd use them for everything left to my own devices, even way worn ones as street tires, the carcasses are so good and stiff, and thereby predictable. Even 45 series Street tires have comfort somewhere on the design brief. get some used ones as soon as you can and better get used to the way increased grip and predictability from lack of sidewall 'wind-up' and release.

Remember folks the idea is to bring some over and try them out. If they are not hot sheeeet, go practice on them, but never on public roads ever or a Mad man will call you names and make ominous allusions, and it will be my fault if you hit that church sunday schoolbuss full of Nuns and their babies and it bursts into flames.

I truly believe the Finns know how to make a gravel tire as good as anybody in the world and probably better than most, they for sure make killer studded rally tires.

I will ask the folks over there what compounds they tires are equivelent to

















John Vanlandingham
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
>Same here.
>
>Any idea of price for 175-14 and shipping to the East Coast.
>
>Do they make 185-14?
>
>TIA,
>
>Carlos.
I'll be getting an answer on the BR44 size, please stand by.
















John Vanlandingham
 

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I picked the BR22's because they look like copies of one of the most popoular Michelin patterns, that seems to be a good overall pattern. None of these are like the Kuhmo's which have very open blockly tread, and are good for mud and deep, chewed up surfaces, but are not good at all on very hard packed surfcaces. And, none of these are like the Michelin Z patterns (assymetric) which are great on hard pack, but terrible in the mud. So, I think you can generally classify rally treads, but like you moto experience, for most of us it's based on experience, not any scientific "eye".

Mark Bowers
 

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John,

So since they are built on known michelin carcas's, and the tread is a close copy of the same, they should perform well yes?

Mark,

So you didnt like the Kumho's at 100AW? It was fairly hard packed there wasnt it? I noticed a lot of cars were shod with Kumho's but I have not heard any feedback of how they worked on the roads there.
 
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