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Dramamine is for DramaQueens
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, call me crazy.

What would people suggest as suspension mods and engine building for an 88 745 for Group 2.
I will look for a 'real' transmission to replace the aluminum 5-speed, but how can I get more power from the B230F without going 'nuts.'
This will be aproject over some time, and I may yet come to my senses

Thanks,

Keith
 

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O.k., you're crazy. But you said...

Now that that's out of the way, I'm sure our buddy Johnny V. has already sent you his phone number to try to talk you into a Ford of some sort. Or maybe not as, since you're considering a wagon of all things, he has already realized you're an incurable Volvophile (either that or your like me thinking that just because you have one you should build it into a rally car).

Step 1) Run away, run away as fast as you can if you can't afford to build a proper, competitive vehicle. Rallying isn't cheap and it's only going to get more expensive to compete as manufacturers get more involved (I don't understand why that is as corporate involvement seems to reduce costs in other sports, just look at bar-league bowling or softball).

Step 2) Buy Rally Trophy and as fast a computer as you can afford. All the cars are 2WD and the game is addicting.

Step 3) If I haven't scared you away yet, GO BUY A BUILT RALLY CAR! People don't say this with regularity because it's fun to say, it saves headaches down the road for those just getting started. With all of the GrpN, PGT, and Open class AWD cars popping up (not because 2WD cars are sprouting new drivetrains) there have got to be a fair number of 2WD rally cars collecting dust in barns here and there, heck, I know of a 1983 GrpA Volvo 242 Turbo that would make a fun, fairly competitive Grp5 car for another year-and-a-half for less than $10k (~$8k + belts + extinguishers + good seats + some other detail stuff). Even a Volvo 142 ITB car with a rally suspension under it would be easier and cheaper to build than your vagon. Just keep in mind that, once the car is built, you need to budget $300+ for each entry fee for ClubRally, $750 entry for ProRally, $150/tire (or get used for ~$50/tire), hotel costs, food, fuel, spares, etc.

I don't mean to scare you away but some of the guys I've seen ask "how can I build my _______ without spending a huge pile of money, I want to go rallying" are jumping into a pool before finding out what the pool is full of. I made the mistake of thinking it wouldn't be that expensive to go rallying. Ooops!

I apologize for the rant. Talk to John Vanlandingham, he's a great source of information! SAM has a good collection of parts for Volvos. Karl Jardevall has (maybe had, he was trying to sell it for something like $11k last year) a 740 Turbo, darn fast, so he might be a good source of information.

Good luck!

George Thompson
1982 Volvo 242 Performance Rally Toy
 

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- I got the only rally spare you need for your Volvo wagon: TOW HITCH
- Then rob a bank, rent a trailer and come to buy my '71 142 Vintage / Gr2 Volvo and become rich & famous rally driver. More info & pics: www.TRS-USA.com
 

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Dramamine is for DramaQueens
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4,813 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Jardevall's Volvo is long sold, and was campaigned at the Doo ****.

Here's some history.

I am currently navigating in the Canadian Wesstern Regional series and a select few others forlast year's Western Canadian Champ Janusz Komorowski, in an open class Talon. (We just finished second overall in the Cochrane Rally of the Ranchlands after losing two of four cylinders on stage 15 of 18)

I got into Navigating as a way to learn aboyt the cars, the sport and 'basic' prep needs.

I KNOW I am several years from building and driving an overall contender car natioally.

The wagon threatens to be a rally car because I KNOW its handling, and I can push it without thinking too much, I don't expect to be a top finisher, this is for fun afterall, and half of the fun is watching people look on in disbeleif ... :)

If the car does come to be, it will be a group 2 car (no group 5 in Canada) but will probably end up being loaned out as a car 0 or if I drive I will suggest I become a sort of media ride, taking on temporary navigators from local media outlets and helping raise the understanding of the sport ... which is a sure way to hurt your results.

All that said, even as a street car I want to get a bit more ommph, and the suspension, cage and skidplates will be the last bits done.

Keith
 

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- OK, since you show some sanity (planing to be a 0-car...) here we go:
- Get an old B23 - good for 150-160HP stock (K-cam, HiComp pistons stock) with 2x45DCOE Webers
- Or buy a B23 #405 casting head & cam (Volvo rebuilt around $ 1500 CND from Ed Schram, Vancouver, BC, 604-599 6081) and bolt it on your bottom end. If you do this use 240 B230 in-block dizzy to fire MSD6AL ignition
- Mount 4.88 gears, no need to change the tranny
- 2xDCOE manifold - try Volvo dude Paulsen (Thompson may also have one?)
 

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OK, I don't know if you're thinking of building a turbo motor or not, but if so, check out www.turbobricks.org. Crazy bunch of Volvo nuts on there who seem very willing to help out. They may even know a bit about the non-turbo motors, or where to send you. Go to the forums for the most help.

I am currently toying with an '88 745T for a street car. If I can get all the bugs worked out to start with, and if the rally car budget doesn't eat up all the available funds, I'm gonna kick it up a notch or 2, 14psi boost, 3" exhaust, cold air box, TruTrac LSD, maybe even some Nitrous. Kinda fun to smoke off the local Camarostang and "The Fast and the Flatulent" Civic punks with a Soccer-mom express!

Good luck with your rally project. Weird is good!

Brian Flanagan;)
 
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