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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question. What exactly are strut inserts? And anyone know why the GAB rally shocks exclude the US Civic models? Are the really that different? Also does anyone know where I can get some info on proflex like their homepage? I cant seem to find it.
 

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>I have a question. What exactly are strut inserts?

Some manufacturers weld the top of the strut tube, so at replacement time you buy a whole strut.
Some have a threaded collar at the top of the strut tube which you unscrew so you drop in an *insert* or 'einsatz patrone' which is the damper element into the original strut body.

The OEM strut tubes are a big problem in terms of strength, the wall thickness is nothing so the strut can and does not want to go straight in when to going gets exciting, and the insert goes twang and bends. All the guys complaining about Bilstein for example have been using inserts into street strut tubes, just as was John Lane in his stoooopid fast Volvo, 1 failure per event.

REAL rally struts dump the OEM tube in favor of a simple threaded usually Chrome-moly tube and then shove in what are in effect shocks with the bodies up, rod down to the bottom of the strut tube. All of the stuff worth having are all mono-tube DeCarbon design, if it's some twin tube gas stuff, it's crap pure and simple unless it's like $12.95 and the damper rates are perfect.

Various companies contend for the 'waaaay beachingist' stuff with larger and larger bodies and everybody want to believe that they need the absolut baddest stuff, but a 41mm Bilsein insert, or max 50mm OUGHT to be just fine for the level 99% of us in the US at this time drive. you got to be able to afford to buy it afterall.





And
>anyone know why the GAB rally shocks exclude the US Civic
>models?
¤¤¤¤Oh, as for why there aren't one car or another in a catalog, They don't see a market.
US catalog for Bilstein doesn't show anything for the Merkur XRATTY/Ford Sierra but their UK catalog shows a huge range of stuff including stuff for road, 'Gravel', or 'asphalt', and Bilstein is polite enough to list what the damper settings are.


Are the really that different? Also does anyone know
>where I can get some info on proflex like their homepage? I
>cant seem to find it.
¤¤¤¤What's you budget? ready to spend $4000 up?

John Vanlandingham

BTY didn't you know GAB stands for GawdAwfulBoingers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for all the info I sort of thought thats what they might be but I wasnt sure. I have another question that maybe you can answer. I can see the consequences of a strut bottoming out but what about a strut that tops out? I have a honda civic which obviously doesnt have long suspension travel and I want to raise my front height at least an inch maybe more. I dont think I will reach the top of my struts but what would happen if I did? Also is there a strut that I can get for my 1990 honda civic, that will handle rallys with some confidence, and hopefully not cost 4000. Right now I am using some bilstein HDs.

Thanks
 

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John Vanlandingham
well topping out is a real problem that gets ignored by nearly everybody. But then again most people have much more confidence in their own knowledge, me I trust measurement. The round section snap rings that hold the assembly together are about 1mm in diameter maybe 1.5mm. Round section, so half is in the groove. not a lot to keep the thing from banging itself apart.

solution is to make some droop limiters.
Eye bolt secured somewhere in the wheelhouse, cable maybe 1/4" dia stainless to somewhere on the sprung part of the suspension. According to Ford, leaver about 5mm of shaft travel left.

In a related note, when I was making the way cool super beeeeeachin' 4 bolt 4 piston big brake kit for Derek "Uncorked" Bottles' Mazda GTX when we jacked the thing up there was severe steering knuckle to lower control arm contact or interferance. Bad, and worse if the wheel was turned more than 15 degrees. And that led to a worse yet problem: pull or strain on the CV joints to the point that the boots were sliding back some. AAAccckkk!

All these thing really gotta be looked at cause we know those naughty nips are not overly generous when it comes to sizing things in the driveline, in other words they give you wimpy CVs,bearing etc so you don't want to be mean to them.

How much total movement do you thing you have? Up? Down?
 

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>Thanks for all the info I sort of thought thats what they
>might be but I wasnt sure. struts
>but what would happen if I did? Also is there a strut that I
>can get for my 1990 honda civic, that will handle rallys
>with some confidence, and hopefully not cost 4000. Right now
>I am using some bilstein HDs.
>
>Thanks

John Vanlandingham

You might try ringing JVAB Imports in Seattle. There are plans in progress to make the CrMo tubes mostly for the XRATTY but also as universal tubes with tailoring the mounting ears to each application. Nothing particularly special about the Honda is there? Can you get photos of front and reap suspension?

try 206 431 9696.
 

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What have you decided to go with. I am looking at building a crx myself. I would like to know who makes a good enough strut that will hold up for rally cross and some club rally that costs around $600 for the set.
 

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> What have you decided to go with. I am looking at
>building a crx myself. I would like to know who makes a good
>enough strut that will hold up for rally cross and some club
>rally that costs around $600 for the set.

Good luck on that budget. Suspension is the best way to go fast. If you skimp on suspension, then you will have a difficult time keeping up with the guys that spent more on suspension. I'd pay big bucks for suspension way before I'd touch the drivetrain.

1) Safety stuff
2) Suspension
3) Trick go fast stuff
 

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I'm just going to be running local ralley cross and a couple club ralley events. I'm just getting started and have a hard time justifying $2000 on just suspension on something I might not be doing in a year or so. If I was going to be running G2 and running lots of regional club and pro events then I would look at some serious stuff but for production class and local events I was hoping to keep the cost down some. I do agree that the suspension is where to spend your money though.
 

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> I'm just going to be running local ralley cross and a
>couple club ralley events. I'm just getting started and have
>a hard time justifying $2000 on just suspension on something
>I might not be doing in a year or so. If I was going to be
>running G2 and running lots of regional club and pro events
>then I would look at some serious stuff but for production
>class and local events I was hoping to keep the cost down
>some. I do agree that the suspension is where to spend your
>money though.

You rally once, you are hooked for life. People never retire from this sport, they just wait until they have enough money to run again...
 

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Try calling ASI in El Cajon CA. They are a shock/strut Wholesalers and their prices are good. I bought Koni struts for the front of the Kia and they were installed by cutting the top off the old strut and drilling a hole for a retainer bolt in the center of the bottom. The new strut then slid inside. This seems very strong as you have a very tight fit and double the wall thickness. I live in the mountains on a dirt road and we have pounded the car with no problems. We paid 120 each strut and they are adjustable damping. Good luck MJ
 

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You can also try calling ground control in shingle springs, they usually deal with road race guys but know thier stuff. they may have an idea on what you could do for cheaper, also, if you are looking for more ground clearance you can run the 92-95 civic shocks with the lower shock mounts from the 92-5 car as well ( the horseshoe lookin thing ) they are longer and will bolt up. Ground Control's # is 530-677-8600 ask for Tony, tell him Nate sent ya to him.

Nate
 
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