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Discussion Starter #1
Just bought a used car as my first rally car. I am wondering what gets replaced after each race, versus each year, versus rebuilt, etc.

After each race: ball joints, out tie rods, CV boots, CV joints, ??

Each year: suspension rebuild or replacement, timing belt and tensioner, etc???

What tire pressures do folks run in FWD? What final drive ratio is generally considered good for low power 2wd cars?

Wasn't sure where to find this info so I thought I would ask here.
 

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Frank, what series VW are you running? Mk. 2, 3, 4, etc... Which engine? Final drives are going to be different between a 2.0 ABA motor to a VR6, to a 1.8 T. For example, I run an Audi TT AMU code 1.8T in my Mk. 4; but use a transmission from a N/A 2.0 ABA Jetta, with a 4.3 F.D. Great thing about VWAG parts is that they are so interchangeable.

For tire pressures, I have been running 24 in the front and 28 in the rear in sand and mud, and when the track is mostly worn out grass and dirt, I use 22 front and 25 rear. But that's RallyCross, not actual stage Rally. The higher pressures in the rear seem to help the rear end to come around. I also use an adjustable rear sway bar, and no front bar; and adjust the rear depending on the track conditions as well. The muddier and stickier the surface, the stronger the bar, to rotate the rear around on tight corners.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
mk3 with 2.0L engine and associated trans. car will be shipped next week, just trying to get a computer, intercom, and maintenance lined up so I know what I am dealing with. Where did you find the 4.3 FD?
 

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Just bought a used car as my first rally car. I am wondering what gets replaced after each race, versus each year, versus rebuilt, etc.

After each race: ball joints, out tie rods, CV boots, CV joints, ??

Each year: suspension rebuild or replacement, timing belt and tensioner, etc???

What tire pressures do folks run in FWD? What final drive ratio is generally considered good for low power 2wd cars?

Wasn't sure where to find this info so I thought I would ask here.

On our VW w/ ABF, it went something like this-->

At each service
recheck all subframe bolts - front and rear
recheck cv axle nut tightness
retorque wheels
visually inspect brakes rotors and brake lines (we used braided lines covered in aerosleeve, so generally we had no issues there)
recheck lower ball joint to control arm bolts

Post race-
check CV joints for wear (jack up car, check for play on inner or outter joint)
retorque inner CV joint bolts to trans
check alternator bolts
inspect belts, hoses, etc
nothing should be rubbing anything

We really never had short term problems with lower ball joints or tie rods.

Without great effort, the best final drive you can get is probably around a 4.2 . I don't think it really matters at first since everyone learning just lifts all the time. Our times didn't really change with final drive change, they changed with committing to corners and crests.


I let my timing belt replacement go a few seasons. Oil a filter I'd do after a few events.

With the used car, you may not know the starting point. I'd try to start with a baseline of having anything that is rubber replaced.


tire pressures are all about ambient air temperatures, the terrain, and tire compound. I started by running them too high at say 32psi and we gradually worked down towards 28 as we got less scared of debeading or pinch flats.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Bent, what rally computer do you recommend? the car I am getting doesn't have one anymore. And what about an intercom. This car isn't as cheap as I thought it was.......
 

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I finally put the hints together and saw that you bought something a bit newer and refreshed, so you may be OK on the rubber end.

You can make use a paint pen to understand what is prone to shaking loose on the car.

On our VW, we had steering rack stops, so the wheels wouldn't turn as sharply, which takes a bit of stress off the driveline if you happen to go to full lock while you are WOT.

You basically make an 8mm thick donut that fits over the metal rack to limit travel internally - check out https://www.americanmuscle.com/roush-steeringrack-stops.html#customer_pics-0 for an example

They make turning around in a parking lot somewhat miserable, but it was/is pretty common on FWD factory cars.
 

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Frank;

Here's basics on the Mk. 4 stuff. Not the same as the Mk. 3, but if you pull up a trans chart, you can find a trans code with a good selection, and then start searching junkyards and craigslist... In a nutshell, I got rid of the 6 speed from the Audi driveline, and bolted up a 5 speed from a 2.0 ABA motor, using a Corrado G60 flywheel and pressure plate.

5-speed

2.0 Unit:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.78:1 1st
2.12:1 2nd
1.36:1 3rd
1.03:1 4th
0.84:1 5th
3.06:1 Reverse
4.24:1 Final Drive


1.8T Unit:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.30:1 1st
1.94:1 2nd
1.31:1 3rd
1.03:1 4th
0.84:1 5th
3.06:1 Reverse
3.94:1 Final Drive


TDI Unit:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
3.78:1 1st
2.12:1 2nd
1.36:1 3rd
0.97:1 4th
0.76:1 5th
3.39:1 Reverse
3.94:1 Final Drive
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I was interested in your car for sure but found something else that was more ready to go and still decently priced so I pulled the trigger on my first ever logbooked car. I have had caged cars before and done rallycross but after 20+ years of volunteering at rallies, I need to drive. I just hope I can find a crazy person to sit beside me.

2wd non turbo, still hope to be quick and not lift.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Also, Daniel SL, you already have a mk4? those are hydraulic clutch and cable shift whereas the mk3 are cable clutch and rod shift, so big change to switch for a gear ratio, but potentially a lot cheaper than buying a mk3 final drive if I can find used parts at a salvage yard.
 

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Correct. Mine is the hydraulic clutch, with cable shift. If you can find a gear ratio code chart on-line, my box and spare are "EGT" coded.
 

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I set tire pressure close to 22 on smooth/snowy events and on gravel 25-28/22 front/rear as other guys said and it depends on how rough the surface is and how fast You're going.
depends on how hot weather is as well. also if You set it 30 in cold tire then by the end of long stage it'll be 40 psi in hot tire and there will be no traction whatsoever.
(my Mini Cooper and now Fiesta weight pretty much as VW. Subaru was heavier and so was the tire pressure accordingly)
I use Amsoil synthetic and change it alone with oil filter after couple of (finished lol) events especially if i do reckoning in a rally car.
But check after the rally to see if it's dirty and it might need change after single event depends on how worn the engine is/
modern timing belts are pretty tough and hard to break so changing interval can be the same as on a street car unless there's oil leaking and dirt getting under the t.b. cover
though i have yet to see the engine that lasts that long w/out pulling it out and rebuilding.
checking all the usual suspects such as brakes, tie rods, ball joints and wheel bearings is a must.
 
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