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Discussion Starter #1
This will begin my build thread, for my 2005 Volkswagen Mark 4 Golf GTi 1.8T. I will be building it for SCCA RallyCross, in the Modified Front wheel drive class. This will be a slow build, piece by piece, as budget allows. But you have to start the thread sometime. No time like the present.

Car history; Insurance totaled, but with a rebuild-able Florida title. The Performance shop I go to bought it, and parted it out; and was going to send the shell to the wrecking yard for scrap.

I picked up the rolling chassis for $250.00, with another $200 for the needed D.S. fender, hood, radiator support, front bumper supports, and all associated needed hardware to make it look like a Mk. 4 GTi again.

Since the interior was already stripped out, I decided to go all out and do a MF build, instead of a PF; as there was no longer back seats, or any trim pieces in the interior.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Stage One:

Needed to get the rolling chassis to be complete, so I could start making a hit list of what was actually needed for doing a true RallyCross build.

Between hanging around the shop, and perusing their on-line eBay store, I was able to pick up the following for a clean $600.

Mk. 4 BBK from the Jetta GLi/20thAE/337 cars. Actually uses the same caliper, but has a larger caliper bracket that allows for bigger rotors, and is strengthend over the standard piece. This gives me 1.2" bigger rotors, and also allows me to keep my stock calipers as spares.

Set of four Ronal 17" x 7.5" wheels from an Audi TT. Needed to clear the bigger brakes.

Smoked Mk. 4 tail light housings (Stocks had been stripped prior to sale).

Mk. 4 Upper rear interior stress bar, between shock towers.

Momo Millennium steering wheel, with quick release hub.

Kamei badgeless grill (needed replacement from the initial accident).

I was also able to work a deal for the already mounted EuroJet FMIC, which the shop was going to remove and sell on their eBay site. $150.00 for an $800 retail kit, was a performance deal I could not pass up. Initially I was going to not worry about an FMIC because of the retail costs, but with Florida heat, and the fact the RX season goes through spring and summer here, it makes sense to at that price.
 

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400 flat to crest
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Are your local rallycrosses on dirt/grass/sand?

You better slow down and ask people more.
17" wheels? Better re-think that is the events are on grass/dirt/gravel.
Gravel tires typically are no larger than 15"---and 65cm max diameter is why.
I'm a big fan of brakes, but gotta get them under 15s..


Will the car be a rally-cross plaything forever or is there any thoughts lurking about eventually making it a Stage rally car.. makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Stage Two:

Found a second set of the Audi TT Ronal 17" x 7.5" wheels on local Craigslist, for $150. Had both sets stripped and cleaned. Going to have them powder coated Gloss White in an homage to my original dream car, the Audi Sport Quattro S1.

As I am on a strict budget for this build, and it is not Stage rallying (SCCA, RA, or NASA); I cheaped out on the seats. But I need seats so I can start with the roll cage stage and other interior ideas rolling around my head.

Back to the Craigslist searching. Found an old Recaro SRD in good condition for $75.00, and a Sparco for $60.00. I still need sliders and brackets for both, so if anyone has info or leads on where to source these parts for out of production seats, I would be most obliged.

Purchased a front upper stress bar, along with new HD mounting hardware for the upper strut mounts. Found one on clearance at ECS tuning, as the Mk. 4 chassis is now over a decade old for even the last year (05'). $75.00 for everything, including FedEx shipping to the door.

Started with the obligatory application of decals/stickers, to make myself feel better about the expenditures. Because... Racecar...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Are your local rallycrosses on dirt/grass/sand?

You better slow down and ask people more.
17" wheels? Better re-think that is the events are on grass/dirt/gravel.
Gravel tires typically are no larger than 15"---and 65cm max diameter is why.
I'm a big fan of brakes, but gotta get them under 15s..


Will the car be a rally-cross plaything forever or is there any thoughts lurking about eventually making it a Stage rally car.. makes a difference.

John;

Already have e-mails in to you about shocks / suspension questions.

Our entire Central Florida Region schedule is done at one site, about 10 miles away from my home. Makes things easier logistically.

Course is changed multiple times through the season, but location is always sand / dirt.

Majority of the competitive cars in Prepared and Modified are running Firestone WinterForce tires, so I was planning on starting there for one set of wheels. For the other, I will get the gravel tires from Rally.Build, as they have the 17" size.

I was also planning on picking up a set of Sparco Terras in 16", if they will work on the brakes. Have to test fit. If they fit, those wheels will be mounted with something for true tarmac, as much more is available in 16".

I may build it for SCCA / NASA stage rallying at a later date, but for at least 2-3 years it will be RallyCross only.
 

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Flat over crest
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Do you have a link to these 17" gravel rally tires? I'd like to see this.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Mudhen;

Thanks for the links. If these can be made to work with sliders, at least for drivers side, they may work for my need.

What part of Maine are you located in? I did my first two years of College in the early 90's up at Biddeford, at UNE. Still go up for vacation to York, to Cape Neddick every year.

Cannot post photos, as my posting permission says I cannot post attachments. Must be too low of a post count right now, as I am a new member.
 

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Mudhen;

What part of Maine are you located in? I did my first two years of College in the early 90's up at Biddeford, at UNE. Still go up for vacation to York, to Cape Neddick every year.

Cannot post photos, as my posting permission says I cannot post attachments. Must be too low of a post count right now, as I am a new member.
UNE, nice! I was at St Joe's in the early 90s, so not too far from there. I'm in Eliot now, right next to York. Weird about the pics - I'm new here as well...seems like it would let me. Write less, post more! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
LOL, I'll remember that. The shop that does all of the custom Land Rover work for the N.H. L.R. club is in Eliot. Nice guy, nice shop.
 

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Matt Brown. I used to be in a LR club in NH - :D

I haven't been in rallyx that long but I can't imagine using such a huge gravel tire. Those things must weigh 100lbs each!

(I run a MINI in MF and I run Black Rockets in a 185x65x15 size...I'm about to order some new brakes and will get a slightly smaller size just so they still fit under the 15s).
 

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Very interesting. Thanks for the link. Is anyone using these Indy tires, that you know of?

Price is reasonable, if accurate. They are retreads, so that keeps the price down.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Mudhen; That's him. I was in SNHLR. The only member living in Florida. Back when Tom was president. Every year on vacation to visit my family in Derry, we would do a winter run. I have a huge, lifted Borrego Yellow DII Kalahari edition.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Stage Three:

Fitted the upper rear stress bar. Finished removing the rear interior and sound deadening. Removed the seat belts, along with passenger side front.

Removed the stock steering wheel, and fitted the quick release hub, along with Momo Millennium steering wheel. Sourced a set of black housing Mark 4 headlights. Didn't matter much about the housings, but they came fitted with HID bulbs already, so was worth the purchase, since I needed one headlight anyways.

Teaser; for the Build...

My mechanic has sourced me a Mk. 1 225 HP TT Quattro. So here comes the 225 Hp 1.8T, the 6 speed trans., the quick ratio steering rack, Aluminum lower control arms and subframe, bigger knuckles, and the larger, vented rear brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The TT finally arrived at the shop. Hopefully within the next week, I can start stripping and inventorying what parts to use. I know I will be using the Audi aluminum subframe, aluminum front lower control arms, Audi 225 AMU code engine, 2.5:1 steering rack, steering knuckles, and rear vented brakes. The "Maybe" list includes the transmission, and various rear suspension pieces. As its a Quattro, I am thinking right now that only the rear brakes will be able to be swapped over.

With this set-up, stock at the crank was 225 set up for Quattro driveline. With FWD, and only FMIC, intake, and exhaust done; I will still have 200+ to the wheels. I may run a full season like that, to see where my weak links will be, and once those are addressed, do the tune to 280+, with around 250 at the wheels. One thing I remember was once your weak links are taken care of in a race car, you only end up finding the next set of weak links.
 

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Sorry about the lack of updates. The inability to post photos on this site has been very frustrating...

Stage Four:

The strip out is done. Gone is the stock AWP code 180 Hp engine and the stock 5 speed. Now to cleaning up the engine bay of everything that is Not needed. Going to relocate the battery to the trunk. Thinking about removing the A/C system, but not sure since I am in Florida after all.

The rear 337/20AE valance has been removed. Decided it hung down way too low, and would just be a sand shovel on the rear bumper cover. Now have easy access to rear tow point as well.

The rear suspension is being set up. Went from a stock GTi rear sway bar to the solid 28 mm Neuspeed unit, which is adjustable. Set it to full hard for now, hoping to make it easier to rotate the rear around. Removed the front sway bar at the advice of many VW rally and RX drivers.

For now, using VW Jetta station wagon springs for additional height. About 1.5" over stock ride height. The car came with Koni coilovers, and even at full height, it was still sitting about 1/2" lower than stock. Just have some junkyard shocks in there right now to keep it as a roller. Stage one will be either Bilstein HD or Koni units. Was thinking the Str.T series until I read about their Special D version which is rebound adjustable. At less than $50 per pair more than the Str.T; it only makes sense to have adjustable rebound.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Rear suspension question:

Instead of spending the money on the Bilstein HD's, and then after only a season or so, replacing them; I am thinking of just biting the bullet and going with the HotBits suspension. Its expensive, but at least its in my budget.

With the rears, the OE travel is 235mm, which is 9 1/4". HotBits shortens the travel to 219mm, or 8.6". Does this make sense to those of you that have run solid rear beam VW's in competition. Will this be enough travel? I know I'm building for RX, but if I do decide to run a couple of Rally Sprints per year, I want to be able to do it on the same suspension at this price point.

Thanks.
 

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The front end repairs are done. The front bumper cover has been clearanced for the front mount intercooler. The new headlights are in. Removal of the A/c equipment has now turned into tracing, understanding, and removing a bunch of the emissions equipment as well.

This coming Friday and weekend I will be researching my transmission codes to understand the ratios, to see if I can get away with one of the 5 speed boxes I have accumulated in its stock form. I am hoping one of the 2.0 4 cylinder golf/jetta boxes I have has the 4.235 final drive in it. That would definitely help spool up the turbo earlier, and I can leave the wide 4th and 5th alone for if I do Rally Sprints later on.
Also, at $100 or less per box, I can keep a spare or two always in the trailer, without it costing a ton.
 
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