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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am planning on installing lexan side and rear windows in my VR4 Galant, with the intention of realizing a significant weight savings over my current power window configuration, with the possibility of some added safety from object intrusion. I would appreciate some input on the subject. I understand the lexan must be thicker than the original glass, but what thickness is usually used? What methods of attachment have people tried? What should I do to enhance egress possibilities? Are there any special concerns when working with lexan? Thank you in advance for sharing your experience.

Ward Ogden,
Galant VR4 #958
 

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I use 3mm , but if the window is more curved I use 2mm.
For the rear window I use a bar welded in to give support.

In my old Lancer Evo1 I used 3mm with no support and at high speeds you could see the lexan start to depress. I have another Evo2 coming , and I might use 2mm and 3 supports , because the lexan cracks when overstressed.

I used silicone around the rear windows to keep out rain.

Be careful with blind rivets , I use another type that looks like a flower.The blind rivets tend to crack the lexan if the the hole isn`t big enough.
I also have used self tapping metal screws , very fast to install and easy to replace windows.The problem is on the inside , you have a lot of screws sticking out.Also use washers , so the self tapping won`t go to far in , especially if you use a power drill to install it quickly.

Robert VanLane
 

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I also have been experimenting with aluminum board. It is foam sandwiched with 2 sheets of aluminum.
This will be the second season but so far it has held up well for flat surfaces.

The advantage was it makes more room for advertising and it also blocks out the light.

Robert VanLane
 

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I used 3/16" Hyzod (tradename). Most glass is about 4mm, so 1/8 would be too thin. I know of at least one top open class team who is cheating on this one....

Anywayz, install with stainless steel screws. Make sure to drill the holes 1 size larger than the screw to allow for expansion and contraction of the plastic. Depending on the curvature of surface, you will need a lot of screws. Use clear silicone to seal things up.

Up and down side window are a different story. I actually did some OEM engineering on this for a while. If you don't put a substantial reinforcement on the edge of the window, when you roll it down about an 1" at 60mph, negative pressure inside the car will blow the window right out the frame and off the car. This shouldn't matter on stage, as the window must be kept closed anyway, but keep it in mind for transits. A side benefit of this flexibility is the that you can punch or kick the window out in an emergancy

After is was all said and done, I didn't find much weight savings (unless I would have cheated), but now I don't have to worry about broken windows when I tap stuff or light rolls. I don't plan on doing the Lancer until I break the glass in there currently, at which time I'll replace with Lexan.

Dennis Martin
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You have to replace it with lexan that is equal thickness to the original glass.

when I measured the original glass, I THOUGHT it came out to 1/8th inch.

for my galant I simply copied the stock window shape and forced the window up in the original track. Then I drilled through the bottom of the window and the little bit of door/seal.

I used blind rivets, but will probably replace them with nylon nuts in the future so that if I have to punch it out for some reason, I don't have to actually bend the lexan to get out...which if I were "excited" enough now, I think I could pop the top 3/4 out of the track and fold the lexan over the outside of the door.

It didn't come out when I rolled the car in 2000 so I would say it is in there pretty solid.

I completely shaved the doors as well. Just the outside shell is in there now. There may be pics on the www.mofugas.com page. They still shut with a thunk but are about 40-50 lbs lighter a door :) Although I doubt the difference between glass and lexan was much more than 2-4 lbs. All the other crap was where the major weight savings lie

john
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
John,
When I implied weight savings I really meant all the crap that is associated with the power doors, etc. The VR4 is solidly built, I believe it when you say there is 40-50lbs worth of stuff in each door.

Thanks,
Ward
 

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door impact beams are probably 8-10 lbs each all by themselves. Rears are obviously removable...fronts depend on your faith in your cage :)

john
 
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