>in the front we use OEM struts whit coilover.
>In the rear its oem whit 4 or 5 urethane block in the
>springs... some use civic springs but i dont know which one
>You need to give more streng to the shock tower...like on
>all rally car...
>the Oem struts are very expensiv(and theya re the only
>available???x( ).....almost the same as getting bilstein
>but people have told me that it would be to stiff for that
>litle car ?
> from a otter topic i saw that a justy team from BC were
>trying to get bilstein on there car ? if it work good i mite
>go for that ?
Do you have lots of problems with the origonal shocks or do they work well?
I just called a bunch of places here and yes, it looks like the only place is the dealer at $170 US. If they do blow a lot it would be nice to find some aftermarket ones with a warranty. Any other problems I should know about?
In the front....they dont brake to often...
so far i replace them once... lets say once a year...but probably less...
in the rear...i replace them whit some escort GT shock..dual action gaz charged...they are about half the price and you can get them any were...but you have to modified them a litle...at the bottom for the holes to match...its a easy job....if you have or know a welder.
in both case you can forget the warranty...in front you need to cut them for the coil over...and the rear...maybe if you stick whiot the oem ?
make shure your justy is very solide and stiff... we made a custom torsion bar in the front...the cage do the job in the rear...
beside that...its pretty much all you can do to it.. for prodution class in Canada...
Its very frsutration coz no performance par are made for that car...so you have to trie to make it your self...
but overal its a very funn car!! it can do some good result if well drivin...and the best part is that its inexpensiv ....
If you don't yet have a car, get a 2 door, 5 speed 91 or newer, fuel injection, not carb. We made up new strut housing that take VW rabbit inserts at both ends, only need one spare! Coilovers at the front and stiffer springs at rear, tried the poly blocks that Alain uses but they kept falling out!
No performance parts are available, not even a K&N filter, you can throw away the exhaust from the cat back and put a straight pipe on, also you can throw out all the intake pipes and plastic box inside the front fender, these two mods make a big difference.
Brakes, we use all OEM pads etc, good but they do smoke a bit after long downhill runs
Great fun, cheap, find a good wrecker, ours only charges $100 for 10 wheels!!
Springs came from Demon Tweeks, approx 40% stiffer than stock. At the rear we made new strut bodies, threaded at the top to accept a drop in rabbit insert. The top strut mount needs the hole enlarging a little bit.
At the front we basically did the same, new bodies to take the insert but we threaded the body for the coil over nuts. The insert needed a fancy modification to the top to make it fit the justy top mount, tricky, get a good machine shop guy.
I kept the original air filter box, as required by the rules but you are able to remove the plastic "expansion" box inside the fender, it has a very small intake hole which makes it hard for the motor to breathe
Actually.. i'd probably disagree with the above statment of the choice Justy.
I have a 1988 Carbed shell with the 1990 EFI Motor in it! It's the lighter chassis, looks better IMHO, and i have all the newer bits! Biggger brakes, sway bars, engine, tranny, all the bits in a lighter car !!!
as far as the intake goes....i've done this. and it does help ALOT!
I used a piece of 2 inch PVC pipe, i heated it up with a Heat gun to make the proper bends, then used a K&N Cone Filter which is sticking out the grill. I hacked up the top of the stock air box a little bit, and used it as a heat shield from the exhaust manifold.
As far as supension goes..i don't think it's that hard for the rear. The springs are easy to replace. Measure them. They are a little over 2.5" Meaning you can use a simple 2.5 inch race spring, whcih you can buy in just about any rate, and length you need.
The only battle is to make the struts stiffer. In the rear i'm trying as we speak to replace the fluid with a heavier fluid (Motul 30 weight). I hope it will make it a little bit stiffer. Enough that i could use a little stiffer spring.
I'm also gonna see if the fronts are gas assist, and if so, i'm gonna do the same. I have about 4 spares around my garage. so i might as well tinker.
I also like the idea of inforcing the strut mounts. What i'm gonna do is Cut some steel plate, and "double-wall" the struts mounts. And weld the plate on the top. It should work well enough.
O.k. Which one is the best one? I don't have one yet but am actively shopping. Here in the states we have way more 2door models and I have heard that it is lighter and at 6ft 3 or 188cm I could use the extra door space. The FI motor makes more power and is more reliable. So this pretty much leaves me with '88 two door and do the FI swap or a 91 FI. What is the difference in weight and what is the interchangeability of parts/ what would the swap include?
Certainly a 2 door, it's 45 pounds lighter than the 4 door, not sure how much lighter the earlier pre FI shell is, although at this stage I wouldn't worry too much about weight, it's a lot of work swopping over all the bits just to save a few pounds! Remember too, that a later car will be more rust free. BTW, check for rust around the fender wells, rear seatbelt mounts and the rear strut towers.
I believe Martin is right, that to run Performance Rallies you can't up date or anything (put the EFI motor into a carbed car)
The older Carbed body style (87 and 88) has a weight of 1751 lbs and makes 66 hp @ 5250 rpms and 70 ft/lbs @ 3600 rpm..
The Newer Body style has a weight of 1951 lbs, made 73 hp @ 5200rpm and 71 ft/lbs at 3600rpms.
If you do the math i don't think there is a hole lot to choose between a carbed car and a EFI car.
I just made the best of both for a few reasons.
1. Cheaper insurance (2 years older)
2. Lighter Shell
3. Rust Free Shell
4. Better Looks IMHO
5. I had a donor car
6. I want to Turbo it
it is ALOT of work to switch everything over. You need to switch the entire wiring harness, and even then alot of it isn't "plug and play"
to compete in the open class... lots of easy solution can be done to get alot more power...
-Bore the bloc to the maximum
-have the head port and polished
-make a intake
-put a fuel pressure riser
-take at least half the weigth from the flywheel..
-Have a custom cam made...or regrind the oem...
-have a custom engine management....
and your starting to have a pretty fast justy...
the Turbo conversion would be pretty easy to do...one day im gona get mad and do it!!!
until then im going to stick whit the CARS rules and save some money...
>until then im going to stick whit the CARS rules and save
I think that is the point and it sounds good I think I will be doing it in a 91 GL 2D FI keep it simple cheep and fun! I don't know when I will have it done though since I don't have the car yet. See you out there! I hope more people join the class it seams like fun and there are enough people running so there is good compettion. Thanks Again Forest