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Hey John,
i need help setting up a hydraulic handbrake in my saab 900, it has the rear wheel handbrake setup. what should i do for lever, master cyclinder, etc? or anyone else, if you have any sites that show this conversion, can you please list them. Thanks.

Ryan Malinchak
1988 Saab 900
1994 Volkswagen Jetta GL
 

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Ok, Ryan, first thing you gotta do is look at the circuits up on the firewall where SAAB does the dual diagonal split. theres a brass forged dubble T piece thingie where the lines from the master cyl arrives and is split to continue on to one front wheel and the opposite rear wheel. crack loose all the hard lines and then think what youre trying to accomplish: 1 line from master needs to split and go to both front wheels and the other line needs to go from master thru the fitting thru the firewall and the to the vicinity of you exsisting handbrake lever. I have a stack of the brackets for the handbrake master sitting here, copies of Ford GpA part, so you'll have to call me and arrange se3nding one to you.
I have suggested that the Dastun/nissan clutch master cylinder which as with nearly all jap hydraulics is 'made under license' from Lockheed/Girling, is a good choice for the handbrake master, they are 5/8 inch bore and say so right on the bodie and are indentical dimensionally to the Girling or Tilton or Willwood, so you can go get one for $5.00 and I have seen 1 fail after years of use, so what the hey.
Remove the plastic resevoir, and drill thru the inlet hole with the Q drill or whatever is the right size for 1/8 NPT Short, then tap the hole. You'll need a adaptor fitting which is male 1/8 NPT and female 3/16 INVERTED FLARE (normal Amerikanskij brake line stuff).
Along your sill you'll see the OEM brake lines heading back to the rear bulkhead, choose 1, preferably the one connected to your firewall brass fitting, and wrassel with it into position along the base if the rear sear support and make a tight curve up to the master cylinder, cut it and flare it (you do have a flaring tool, dontcha?) the use the other left over line as raw material for the line to go from the outlet (which is M10x 1 bubble flare, so I always save a hunk of the jar steel line so I have the fitting needed, then do a US inverted flare union from my OEM line to the stubby hunk o jap line.) of the master to the rear bulkhead where I place a 1/16 inverted flare T, then run the lines out to the original bulkhead fttings using the OEM female nuts so I can use the OEM hoses.

Now I think brakes are the single most important thing on the car, and the biggest single performance advantage, despite people poo pooing it, probably cause you need skill to utilise brakes, instaed of just buying a gizmo, so while you're dinking around here, think about what you will want to do for rear calipers, the handbrake ones for 900 are small both hydraulically and pad-wise. My normal favorite Volvo 240 with the nice 38mm pistons would be a hard fir cause of the flattish wheels you'll be stuck with IF you stick with you 88 on stuff. So look into the up to 87 stuff cause you can do waaaaay simple brake upgrade with those wheels/disc setups.

Hey I am all damp from working outside today, I'll try and scann some piccies of Ford stuff and the see if i can post it here a bit later when I've thawed out.

Hey what you going to to about cage?














John Vanlandingham
 

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Heres an attempt at posting a photo of my handbrake setup in the Ford, your SAAB is similar enough, the main thing to look at is the relationship of the lever pivot to the pin for the master cylider clevis, this one is wrong, needs to be closer to the handbrake pivot and placed approx at 1 o'clock so the it's going accross the top of the arc of the handbrakes movement, this translates into MOSTLY in and out movement, not up or down. A nice line drawing MIGHT follow.

http://users.anytimenow.com/janvanv/handbrake.jpg

Bugger, the photo hasn't come thru, the drawing did. I\ll keep at it.

John Vanlandingham
 

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>Heres an attempt at posting a photo of my handbrake setup in
>the Ford, your SAAB is similar enough, the main thing to
>look at is the relationship of the lever pivot to the pin
>for the master cylider clevis, this one is wrong, needs to
>be closer to the handbrake pivot and placed approx at 1
>o'clock so the it's going accross the top of the arc of the
>handbrakes movement, this translates into MOSTLY in and out
>movement, not up or down.

A [link:www.brockeng.com/mechanism/Watt.htm|Watt's linkage] will translate a radial motion to linear if you feel like getting fancy. Several other linkages at that [link:www.brockeng.com/mechanism/index.htm|site]
 

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400 flat to crest
Joined
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5,777 Posts
>Heres an attempt at posting a photo of my handbrake setup in
>the Ford, your SAAB is similar enough, the main thing to
>look at is the relationship of the lever pivot to the pin
>for the master cylider clevis, this one is wrong, needs to
>be closer to the handbrake pivot and placed approx at 1
>o'clock so the it's going accross the top of the arc of the
>handbrakes movement, this translates into MOSTLY in and out
>movement, not up or down. A nice line drawing MIGHT follow.
>
>
>
>
>
>http://users.anytimenow.com/janvanv/handbrake.jpg
>
>
>
>
>Bugger, the photo hasn't come thru, the drawing did. I\ll
>keep at it.
>
>
>
>
>
>John Vanlandingham
















John Vanlandingham
 

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Melvin, can I ask: what the #%^¨Öäå!???
It's a handbrake lever the poor kid is asking about.

Interesting site all the same especially the 4 bar link stuff that several Volvo boys will be getting done to their 240s soon. And maybe Ranger Rick, too.













John Vanlandingham
 

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>
>Melvin, can I ask: what the #%^¨Öäå!???

Sorry, sometimes I tend to the idealistic side, it's the engineer in me desperately trying to get out.

At any rate the linkage isn't all that complicated. Afterall it only has three links and four pivots; and one of the links could be used as the actuator. I've used the design several times when I've wanted to get linear motion out of an arc like motion.
 
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