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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, not too mechanical but, what would be best to paint the inside the rally car. Thought while I have some down time, waiting to hit the lotto, might as well spiff it up alittle.

I was thinking about something like Rhino Liner (truck bed liner) for the floor pan, and then the rest, cage and all with whatever else. I do realize the yes the stuff would add weight, but if it came to that, I could drop a spare pound or 5.

Any suggestions, on what works well?

Thanks all and keep the shiny side up!

Mo
 

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Just plain ole' enamel paint, a good quality. It will be easy to clean. I would fear that anything like rhino liner would create bad fumes when the exhaust got really hot.

White seems to be the color of choice these days. Years back, it was flat black, on the theory of keeping one's night vision at it's peak. (I never figured out how you're going to maintain good night vision with all those lights blasting out there!). The same reasoning went into flat balck hoods for all the "rally" packages for cars in the 70's. But black is sure hot in the day time.

Mark B.
 

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RE: Interior Protection. From What?

You really should think about what you are going to do when it's time to repair the floor or the sills if you have a bunch of plastic crap there. That is one of the reasons for white paint, cracks show up more readily, and it's east to wire brush away to weld then you can match it when you're spraying it when you're done.
What would be the point of bed liner stuff?

There's something to be said for simply copying what you see as fairly consistant at higher levels of the sport.














John Vanlandingham
 

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RE: Interior Protection. From What?

>There's something to be said for simply copying what you see
>as fairly consistant at higher levels of the sport.

You mean like driving an EVO or a Subaru?

....sorry...couldn't resist. ;)

Mike Anson
In Illinois? Join the Rally Cabal!
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RE: Interior Protection. From What?

I seem to recall reading (one of Shelby's books, perhaps?) a suggestion of painting crack prone things with Krylon rattlecans. The paint is more brittle than whatever is underneath it, so cracks develop in the paint before the structure, allowing you to find and fix things before they actually fail. You have to patch paint wear areas fairly frequently, so footwells may be out, but it could work well around suspension pickups and the like.

Matthew McLaughlin
 

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The reason for flat black, was to stop
light and sun reflections. In summer rallys,
the black made it much hotter though. You can
mantain your night vision as long as the light
sources are not blasting in your eyes.The hoods
and dash boards were painted black for that purpose.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
RE: Interior Protection. From What?

>You really should think about what you are going to do when
>it's time to repair the floor or the sills if you have a
>bunch of plastic crap there. That is one of the reasons for
>white paint, cracks show up more readily, and it's east to
>wire brush away to weld then you can match it when you're
>spraying it when you're done.
> What would be the point of bed liner stuff?
>
>There's something to be said for simply copying what you see
>as fairly consistant at higher levels of the sport.
>

Well JV, protection from the boogers I fling at it, what else!?

Actually no, The thing about the cracks makes some good sense, also the stuff about the tunnel getting hot and makin you feel like you took some hits off the bong, from Mark B.

Thanks for all you tips you firecracker you. :)

-Mo
"as newbie as they come"
 
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