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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello everyone, not sure if I'm posting in the right place, but would love for people to chime in on my dilemma as so far no-one including some reputable places have ever encountered this, I asked believe me. What are your thoughts? How are the fully built rally cars getting around this issue?

My car: 2010 Subaru Sti SE
factory breaks: Brembo
Factory rims: 18"

Going for a gravel winter setup:
What I have:
Subaru FHI 4pot front, Subaru FHI 2 pot rear
braket for rear 2pot mounting
all the proper rotors ( this was not easy to find )
And finally a set of brand new 15x7 Speedline Corse 5x114 Rims (Gold)

Here is the dilemma:
When the rim is mounted the inside lip is firmly touching the location where the strut is bolted to the hub. It's clearing the brakes it's clearing everything but that stupid location in the front only, rear fits perfect. Picture is worth a thousand words.


Clearly not good at all!

closeup:


I've even added a 3mm spacer, and that is still not enough to clear it. My solution was to grind that location down.



not clean but it did the job, I would not say this is a permanent solution. I do not like it.

Here is the clearance you get after grinding:


Whats really driving me crazy is that you do the research you spend over 2K to do this swap to your Sti and find out that front rims don't clear the struts/hub and no one seems to have any answers. Even some major players.

My solution worries me as if I catch a mystery rock and it bends the wheel a tiny bit my whole rim will be junk because that strut will eat away at it like it was on a lathe! And as we all know Speedline rims are not cheap...

Rims in question:


So does anyone know of how people that built 2010 sti hatches for rally and used Speedline Corse 2118 wheels cleared that location? Besides replacing the wheel studs and using a spacer.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, would love to be confident in knowing I will not grind my wheels off. :)
 

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R4Vlg>TREE
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Wheels are the wrong offset. The GR models use a slightly different offset than GD models, something like +42 instead of +52, which is just enough of a difference to have the problem you're having. Could probably also switch to a 15x6.5 at the same offset.

From the Guru @ Team Illuminata: "Due to clearance issues on the newer cars we specify +45 or +42 these days. This is not a BRAID issue but industry wide as the strut mounts changed from N13 on."
 

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I rally race 2010 sti hatch( dukes of Mendocino rally team) and have et 48 speed lines and don't have issues.your rims must not be et 48
 

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R4Vlg>TREE
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Are they 15x7 or 15x6.5? 15x6.5 ET48 would probably be fine, but 15x7 ET48 are known to rub, which is why they all changed to lower offsets recently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Are they 15x7 or 15x6.5? 15x6.5 ET48 would probably be fine, but 15x7 ET48 are known to rub, which is why they all changed to lower offsets recently.
They are 15x7 ET49 I bought them brand new from a shop in Canada, I just think the guy was not aware of the 2010 issue. So here I am stuck with them so I guess I grind the offending parts a bit more just to make sure there is enough clearance even under load. What would people say is a safe distance? How close is to close and how far is enough in MM?
 

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R4Vlg>TREE
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Yeah, sorry, that was for the guy saying his ET48 fit. As far as grinding, that should be a pretty static distance. If it clears, it should always clear, regardless of movement/etc. Someone correct me if I'm wrong there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Yeah, sorry, that was for the guy saying his ET48 fit. As far as grinding, that should be a pretty static distance. If it clears, it should always clear, regardless of movement/etc. Someone correct me if I'm wrong there.
Does this look sufficient?
or do I need more space?
 

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How is your camber adjusted? If you are still using the camber bolts (or have a slotted strut like me .. i'm dumb) then a really bad rock hit can force your front to its max range of adjustment.

in my case i hit a rock bad at NNR and went from -2 to about -4 (did i mention i'm dumb and over slotted my strut?)

in other words : try to get more neg camber by adjusting your bolts, set to max neg camber (via the strut bolt adjustment) .
if it does you are good.

even if you have camber plates, that won't change how close the rim is to the strut. ;)
 

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Those are for the SRTUSA cars which do not use the same uprights/brakes/etc as stock cars. The quote I posted for the +42/+45 offset is from Paul @ TIM, and I'm pretty confident he's correct. You could contact them directly and ask though, maybe it changed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thank you everyone for the replies, I think I will just have to get longer studs and some 10mm spacers to solve this, just a pitty that when I was buying the wheels brand new they did not know that it would not work without modification and didn't advice on proper offset :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Went out to drive in circles aggressively, looks like they still touch a bit but not a constant contact:


I'll have to grind some more on the hub upper, I'm just starting to doubt that there is actually that much movement between the hub and rim.
Look at all that space. Is it possible what do you guys think?
 

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Those are for the SRTUSA cars which do not use the same uprights/brakes/etc as stock cars. The quote I posted for the +42/+45 offset is from Paul @ TIM, and I'm pretty confident he's correct. You could contact them directly and ask though, maybe it changed?
I didn't realize that the SRT cars were *that* different.

I'll have to grind some more on the hub upper, I'm just starting to doubt that there is actually that much movement between the hub and rim.
Look at all that space. Is it possible what do you guys think?
If you were just doing pavement stuff, I'd say no problem. If you are doing any sort of rally related stuff, one good impact on anything could leave you stranded. That being said, an impact of that magnitude might also bend your lower control arm as well, so it might not matter.
 
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