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i also stripped my car completely before beginning this build a few months ago.
And same as You I bought it damaged from the auction.
now most of it is assembled and painted. will need another two-three weeks to finish.
for tuning most likely i'll use Cobb. used one for our Fiesta can be found for about $400
that's the cheapest option for now.
...not sure how to post images. it used to be easier =o)))
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I'm having some GRRRR moments lately with photos now that my camera has been supplanted by a phone - Vbulliten doesn't look at the EXIF data, so everything is always upside down or sideways.

I'll monkey with a few things when I get home and post up photos of the preliminary HVAC case install.


I saw a cool thing at work today - this dash was trimmed around a cage, and instead of just cutting the dash, they cut the substrate, left the top vinyl intact and wrapped it down over the edge. It looks super clean. I hadn't seen anything like it before (because I wasn't looking) and am kicking myself for just hacking up my dash and creating a hard edge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I don't think the top of the Fiesta dash is soft enough to do it - I looked at mine when I got home. Or maybe it is if you can heat the top layer and roll it once it's warmed up.


I'm on a garage cleaning hiatus from actual car work, although I did start hacking on the rear axle to get the hubs bolted up to it. Trying to round up all my VW Jetta parts so I can get a more cohesive sale package and information together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
What's the purpose of the spare tire bar in the some of the R2 builds? Is it just to make the spare easier to handle by lifting one side?

 

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gravel tire is much bigger than the stock one and won't fit in.
i tried to hummer out that but still not big enough.
that's the thing.
updates on my build: don't know how to attach pictures so here are the links:
made a massive skid plate

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Fuace0be7sCax7Nd2

in case You wondering: i welded L shaped pieces (with welded nuts on the inside) to front rail
had to drill holes for those nuts to fit in. one was already there, just had to make it bigger.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/hlcpJrcaheGAOT6l2

was pulling my hair (not like if i have much left already lol) what to do about windshield washer reservoir.
cut it short and plastic weld the filling neck but after mounting it realized it'll be rubbing left tire so had to relocate it further forward and
made flexible filling neck. it'll hold enough water to last in-between services.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Balb0UJVRq9j4g1w2
 

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just found out my HVAC wasn't working. and i mean it won't budge at all!
did some reading and it seems like 2016 ST's have some issues with that.
complains are pages long!
http://www.fiestastforum.com/forum/threads/7315-Climate-Control-Heater-Issue
So after checking fuses and relays I decided not to waste time figuring out what the problem was
but to dump automatic climate control altogether and switch to manual.
Started splitting wires from my other n/a HVAC manual unit but since some connectors were different from ST ones
I just left manual fun control and will remove all the servo motors, also will make shutters open/close manually to simplify things.

On my Mini Cooper I ditched that stupid automatic climate control unit and installed controls from a 100 y.o. Subaru
The conclusion is: make sure Your heater works properly before doing final assembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Well, I don't have a lot of options for replacing it, so it better work.

I didn't have any real issues with it before I tore it down, so I expect it to be ok.
 

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i found an unplugged connector and can't find there to plug it.
sent You a PM with the picture.
If You check it out that'd be great!

everything was working in my car as well. i think the part of the problem might be is a/c being removed
as for blower all You need is a resistor pack and a slider that controls speed.
for Mini i got that off one real old subie from scrap yard
in case if Your unit doesn't work. hopefully it's not the case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·

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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Did you pull your restraints control module out? I picked the super hottest day of the year so far to start trying to get the wiring back into the car.

It's been a pain in the neck, especially because I put the dash in before doing the main body harness. Not sure what I was thinking there.

I suspect I'll be taking the car apart again after I get it running again and get a few more things figured out- I'd like to get the restrains module and all that wiring out of it. The two other modules on the passenger side seem superflous, and I'm still figuring out what to do with the junction box on the passenger side. It doesn't seem like there is anything to mount it to?
 

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i was putting everything back in a hurry because we had a rally coming up and don't remember if it's plugged in. i think i might've been but will check later.
junction box is a body control module, just leave it alone unless You go stand alone and rewire all the body wiring Yourself or buy a simplified made harness.
i wired rad fan directly via switch because it wasn't working! probably due to a/c removed?
and since the stupid instrument cluster doesn't have coolant temp. gauge i downloaded free torgue app. to my old smartphone
and plugged in blue tooth thing into OBDII to watch it. attached the phone with velcro to console and it did the job.
Now:
we run it at Rocky Mountain Rally last weekend and Rocky was a Rocky as always and even a bit rockier than last year lol.
since we didn't have a goal to make a podium i literally rolled in 1st gear over big rocks and bolders getting used to the car during first day.
i didn't like the car at first. for some reasons it has tremendous understeer. it's just want to go straight!
also compared to supercharged Mini it surely lacks torgue and not having it tuned doesn't help either lol.
i have to adjust my driving habits. LSD is a must thing and it's now 1st on my to do list.
there were two more P2WD cars and we won all the stages in class except for one when i kinda went a bit wide (again due to oversteer) and lost some time getting back on the road.
second day stopped caring about tires and such and pushed it a bit and we had a blast on first two opening stages.
on third went into a ditch on late note and bent control arm and de-beaded front tire.
i honestly thought we're done but started it up and got it moving. road was very narrow and i had to find a safe place to change a tire.
lost over 10 min. on stage altogether. finished it nonetheless and coasted the last one and limped to the finish.
M-Sport Bilsteins are OK. had to preload the springs during first service. they're made for n/a which is i think like 200 lb lighter. rears were OK
all cars were weighted before the rally and mine was 2600 with half tank full
the car grew up on me towards the end of the rally and she's a tough cookie i must say.
would love to install higher final ratio alone with LSD but unfortunately it all comes down to budget =o(
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
Yeah, you want to get the control arms plated.

The car was designed to do some torque vectoring with the ABS system, so I guess if you unhook the ABS, you're going to get a bit more understeer than ideal. Did you leave the front sway bar hooked up or did you unhook it? Leaving it on will give you understeer.

I had to talk to M-sport about the shocks - I got a bit confused how to mount them to the plastic strut bearings and they told me you need to open up the hole a bit more to clear the lower urethane washer they ship them with.


The cooling fan and the AC disconnect shouldn't be related. My fan worked and Iv'e never had working AC.


If you know the coolant temperature, what do you do with the information? The PCM will derate as the temperatures go up and protect the engine, assuming you have coolant in it at least.
 

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i just didn't have time figuring out rad fan issue.
during transits temp stays where it should be even in a hot weather (stayed 86-87 C) but right before the start i just did turned fan full blast
and we had two stages going up and up and up the hill all the way for 14 kms.
i glanced on the gauge in the middle and temp was over a boiling point (112 C it was) so i flipped up heater blower full speed as well
(damn it was hot inside lol)
guy with other Fiesta says he had overheating issue as well but since there's no gauge You can't really tell till it starts steaming.
my suspension came with the instructions and yes, it was about opening up the hole to accommodate washers in stock top hats.
i was exercising the idea of removing stabilizer bar links but watched Team-ONeil vids and saw they have them hooked
also my friend has an R2 here and he has them hooked too so i just left them alone.
i think installing LSD will solve the understeer issue
PS.
forgot to say: for some reasons strut bolts that mount them to knuckles were getting loose.
had to tighten up left one and checked the other but next service the left had to be tightened up.
though when i put the car together i know i tightened them all up pretty good.
also for some reason front control arm front bolt got loose as well.
so You might keep it in mind and check those during services when You run it first time and see if You have the same issue?
 

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Discussion Starter · #76 · (Edited)
The local friendly NASA inspector stopped by and checked out the car and associated paperwork.



This project is unfunny in how slow I'm taking it, but somehow things manage to creep forward.
 

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At Pacific Forest rally which we didn't finish due to co-driver's motion sickness.
car performed exceptionally well though. i shaved about 1 min/10 kms compared to my last year's run in Mini Cooper S.
However right front strut insert went through top hat but by then our rally was over anyway.
You might consider adding wide thick washers between strut and stock top hats because OEM mounts metal is real thin.
i'll post a picture later to see what i mean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 ·
Uh oh, that doesn't sound good. I was waffling on adding a plate to the top of the strut sheet metal, but didn't.

Curious to the photo of what you are talking about - hoping I don't have a problem!
 

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it didn't go through strut tower.
i actually cut off top portions off strut towers off my Fiesta for parts and welded them from under.
the insert went through the actual strut top hat. I remember the impact and i think it was a dip on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Year later update-
I got my pilot's license this year, so the car sat abandoned for a long time. Good thing I have photos of those logbooks, now I know what they look like so I can try to figure out where I put them.

I had some space problem between my cage and the brake fluid tank. I finally got a tank fabbed up to fix that problem and am proceeding with getting the rear disc adapter kit installed.


2019-12-13.jpg

Tank is stainless with brass push on fittings threaded into weld in bungs for the MC fill and clutch master line.
 
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