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Discussion Starter #1
Anybody have any suggestions?

I'd like to keep the stock pedal.

What master cylinders to use? Whould it be feasible to make a bias bar, maybe several interchangeable ones with holes in different places?
I want it to be as safe and as cheap as possible while still being adjustable.

Thanks in advance.

Will MacDonald
1968 Volvo 144
 

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Ohmigod, there is someone else out there who wants to do the same thing I want to do to my 242!!!

I have a set of the GrpA papers for the '83 242 Turbo and in there it shows pictures of the dual master setup. I'm not yet sure what size masters to use but JVL pointed me in the right directions for calculating the correct size. I'll be using the stock pedal assembly but modifying it to use one of the bias bars from Tilton or Wilwood or something. The mounting for the cylinders will just be a 3/16" thick plate that will bolt onto the same bolts that the brake booster bolts to with the extra holes drilled in it for the cylinders. If you'd like I can send you info when I get around to working on this part of the project, let me know ([email protected]).

George Thompson
1982 Volvo 242 Performance Rally Toy
 

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Discussion Starter #3
>Ohmigod, there is someone else out there who wants to do the
>same thing I want to do to my 242!!!
>
>I have a set of the GrpA papers for the '83 242 Turbo and in
>there it shows pictures of the dual master setup. I'm not
>yet sure what size masters to use but JVL pointed me in the
>right directions for calculating the correct size. I'll be
>using the stock pedal assembly but modifying it to use one
>of the bias bars from Tilton or Wilwood or something. The
>mounting for the cylinders will just be a 3/16" thick plate
>that will bolt onto the same bolts that the brake booster
>bolts to with the extra holes drilled in it for the
>cylinders. If you'd like I can send you info when I get
>around to working on this part of the project, let me know
>([email protected]).
>
>George Thompson
>1982 Volvo 242 Performance Rally Toy

Cool!

I'd also like to know if there's a way to get rid of one of the front brake hoses on each side. There's no need for 2 hoses going to each caliper if they are both connected to the same hydraulic circuit.

Will MacDonald
1968 Volvo 144
 

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Gorgo and Will, when the time comes, for your 240 Gorgo, I'll have some stuff done for Kevin "the Chin" Hakanson (it's supposed to be Håkansson but ****** yanquis can't spell) and his Gp5 car. If you have a spare pedal I could weld it up at the same time as his.

For the front brakes, since this car is likely to be fast we want more front brakes than the 240 came with. So we're putting the front disc from the 740 on and then using the nice Sumitomo licence built Girling/Lockheed 4 piston aluminum calipers from 2nd gen RX7. It require a simple spacer, so again if you want, let me know. it will of course need only 1 hose going to it.

Will, the _calipers_ on the Volvo are split side to side in the caliper, Volvos typical Lutheran worry wartness. See, if you lose a hose anywhere the most you lose is 1 rear caliper, and the diagonally opposite calipers one half. You'll never bleed this circuit at a service, so get rid of it.

You'll end up replumbing this to conventional front- rear split when you do the dual master set up, and the Mazda calipers could be an easy deal on the 145 as well, and god know the 145 could do with any ounce reduction it can get.

Look for the rear circuit limiters and get rid of them. The resulting balance will be really good for gravel.

does my memory fail me or is the handbrake lever like in the glove box or between the seat and door? Gonna want to move that maybe, eh?














John Vanlandingham
 

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Discussion Starter #5
>Gorgo and Will, when the time comes, for your 240 Gorgo,
>I'll have some stuff done for Kevin "the Chin" Hakanson
>(it's supposed to be Håkansson but ****** yanquis can't
>spell) and his Gp5 car. If you have a spare pedal I could
>weld it up at the same time as his.
>
>For the front brakes, since this car is likely to be fast we
>want more front brakes than the 240 came with. So we're
>putting the front disc from the 740 on and then using the
>nice Sumitomo licence built Girling/Lockheed 4 piston
>aluminum calipers from 2nd gen RX7. It require a simple
>spacer, so again if you want, let me know. it will of course
>need only 1 hose going to it.
>
>Will, the _calipers_ on the Volvo are split side to side in
>the caliper, Volvos typical Lutheran worry wartness. See, if
>you lose a hose anywhere the most you lose is 1 rear
>caliper, and the diagonally opposite calipers one half.
>You'll never bleed this circuit at a service, so get rid of
>it.
Actually, both front calipers lose half (don't know if there's a different setup on other Volvos).

>You'll end up replumbing this to conventional front- rear
>split when you do the dual master set up, and the Mazda
>calipers could be an easy deal on the 145 as well, and god
>know the 145 could do with any ounce reduction it can get.
I'd rather leave the stock calipers in for now (not broke, why fix it). I was wondering if anyone's modified the calipers (internally or externally) so there's 2 fewer hoses to fail up front.

>Look for the rear circuit limiters and get rid of them. The
>resulting balance will be really good for gravel.
Kinda become redundant w/dual master cylinder. Those things hold pressure in the rear circuit until the brakes are nearly released, so there's virtually no modulating the rear brakes once the limiters kick in.

>does my memory fail me or is the handbrake lever like in the
>glove box or between the seat and door? Gonna want to move
>that maybe, eh?
It was between the seat and door, but it got in the way of the roll cage, so I cut it off. There's a shaft that goes from the lever under the driver's seat to the transmission hump where an arm sticks through the floor to operate the cables. I'm probably going to just weld the handle to the other end of that shaft.

PS: anyone ever try lengthenning the left and right tie rods and shortenning the middle one so that the steering ratio is more consistent? I don't know what Volvo was thinking when they desined those linkages.

>John Vanlandingham

Will MacDonald
1968 Volvo 144
 

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400 flat to crest
Joined
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5,777 Posts
.
>>You'll never bleed this circuit at a service, so get rid of
>>it.
>Actually, both front calipers lose half (don't know if
>there's a different setup on other Volvos).

**Whatever, it is typically Volvo way too much hand wringingly annoyingly fiddly, YOU yourself seem to realise this in you request for information about getting rid of one of the hoses.
>>You'll end up replumbing this to conventional front- rear
>>split when you do the dual master set up, and the Mazda
>>calipers could be an easy deal on the 145 as well, and god
>>know the 145 could do with any ounce reduction it can get.

>I'd rather leave the stock calipers in for now (not broke,
>why fix it).
Your desire to modify them sounds to me like they ain't broke but they ain't working like you want, so it would seem reasonable to think that gettin a nice 4 piston caliper that is designed to work with one hose, and as a bonus is 10 lbs lighter per side, has slightly larger hydraulic area, and around a 20% larger pad all at the same time would be an interesting little improvement. Since you will need to do extensive replumbing when you do your dual master set up.
Well since nobody answered, and I was 17 years ago when I screwed around making them work for one hose, and I have learned a bit since then (and forgotten a lot of useless crap, too, like what I did to modify them!)

I was wondering if anyone's modified the
>calipers (internally or externally) so there's 2 fewer hoses
>to fail up front.
>
>>Look for the rear circuit limiters and get rid of them. The
>>resulting balance will be really good for gravel.
>Kinda become redundant w/dual master cylinder. Those things
>hold pressure in the rear circuit until the brakes are
>nearly released, so there's virtually no modulating the rear
>brakes once the limiters kick in.
Huh? News to me.
'become redundant' ? That mean you will be getting rid of them?
.
>
Only mods to the steering (and John L, there's some guy way in the south in 'djupaste, mörkaste Skåne', who was making replacement Stock worm gears junk, but nothing quicker), I've seen are guys, even in nice PVs, pitch the junk steering box and add the crossmember and rack from the later cars, with of course 2.2 powerrack like I got for John Lane.

But this would be too nice, and it's ain't broke, I know....just lousy even as street stuff.















John Vanlandingham
 
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