[bopApocalypse]

I'm getting an ODO (Monit Q-20) set up right now, but it's going to be regularly swapped between different cars (4Runner for volunteering, TSD layout, etc, as well as the stage car), so I want to set it up so stuff can be plugged/unplugged easily.

Ideally, I'm looking for two two-wire plugs, one for power and one for the remote switch. Two different types might be nice, but if they're M/F type plugs I can just use the Male for Power and Female for footswitch (so the wrong things don't get plugged together). Only other requirement is at least a semi-positive lock - unplugging the odo over a bump sounds less than optimal. These will be in the car, so they don't really need to be too tightly sealed.

I'm already using powerpoles for my radio gear, so that was my first thought - but the wires for the Monit are tiny - 20g or less - so I don't really feel like bulking those up just to go into the PP connectors.

What connectors should I be looking for?

 

[zerodegreec]

You need to look for contacts that are rated for higher cycle rates. The Deutsch DTM series would be your best bet. You can use one plug to do it all. If this is a route you would like to go, the crimper is $$$. I have one if you decide to go this route.

I could build you a pigtail harness that you could crimp or solder to the wires in your various car setup. You could send the Monit and I can crimp the leads directly from the unit to avoid additional crimps or solder joints. Many options.

Good Luck.

 

[John Sundelin]

As Bryan points out, the crimper is key. If you have a buddy with a Daniels Manufacturing crimper who will loan it to you indefinitely, there are a huge variety of connectors available. Unless space and weight are determining factors, I will always go with a circular connector. When you are dealing with environments that are far from pristine, their ruggedness tends to pay off. I'd personally recommend this: http://www.amphenol-industrial.com/index.php/amphe-lite It's basically a MIL-DTL-38999 Series III composite connector, but without the associated pedigree paperwork and MIL-SPEC price. I have one for my light pod. But, you still have to deal with the crimp issue. If you want to solder, you can probably find some MIL-DTL-26482 Series I connectors that are solder cup. In the tiny pin sizes, they tend to be "easy" to bend, but 20 AWG you should be OK. Commercially, these are available as the ITT Cannon KPT series, and probably some others. Done correctly with a shrink boot adapter (that threads onto the connector) and a shrink boot, the connector will probably outlast you.

--
John

 

[John Sundelin]

It turns out that I actually have a MS3110F8-4P and a MS3116E8-4S which are 4 pin, solder cup connectors. The MS3110 has a clamp to support the wiring to it (it's panel mount connector) but the MS3116 just has a standard MIL endbell, which I would replace if I were going to use it in that applicaton. If you want them, I am willing to contribute them to the worthy cause of rally volunteering. Incidentally, they are good for a 50G shock...

--
John

 

[shredxcam]

Just grab some cannon plugs from the aircraft industry? Super easy to install. If your paranoid about them comming loose you can saftey wire them. And they come in pin in set ups or solder in. Use heat shrink or f4 tape to seal them.

How it's done on aircraft.

 

[bopApocalypse]

I assume you mean cannon plugs like these (same as John is reccomending):

and not xlr plugs (which wikipedia tells me are also called cannon plugs)?

It looks like it's really just a question of what crimpers I can beg/borrow/buy-for-cheap... It looks like there's some reasonable-cost crimpers out there for Weatherpack stuff, any compelling reason not to go that route?

 

[John Sundelin]

That top picture is actually a MIL-C-5015 connector. There are a couple of reasons why they are not allowed for new designs, but they do work, and are pretty cheap, but they are also not small. The only reason to avoid the Weatherpacks is that all connectors of that type tend to jamb up when they get exposed to copious amounts of dust and dirt, and they really aren't designed to be connected and disconnected many times. But, if you don't mind replacing them every once in a while, they should work fine.

--
John