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Discussion Starter #1
I got a entire roof for my Honda and I was planning on just cutting out the section I need to fill my sunroof and then welding it in place, grinding it then touching it up with bondo. I called a body shop guy just to ask how much it would cost and he said I shouldnt do it because the body will flex and crack the bondo. Anyone have any tips before I do this?
 

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Did he give you a quote for replacing the whole roof?

You'll have to remove the glass, but it would effect a super fix if done correctly.

The bondo wouldn't necessarily crack if you weld in the sun-roof pane thoroughly. However, it would be a tough job to avoid warpage when completely welding the panel--it' s in the middle of the roof.

Perhaps he is telling you that he is not too keen about the weld job required to avoid the overuse of Bondo.

Cheers.
 

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When I did my IT civic ( now converting to rally ) I made a template out of cardboard and had a local sheet metal shop cut me a piece that would fit well in the hole. I stich welded it in and filled any gaps with bondo so it would not leak, I have yet to have it crack, I would say to watch for the warping though, mine did pretty bad and we tried to keep the heat as low as possible, I dont really care all that much though, if you want you can come look at it as you are only about 5 minutes from my house ( I live in orangevale ). hope this helps

Nate
 

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Having just finished the procedure myself, I can tell you it's not a fun job. I cut out a patch panel with a jig saw, everything fit beautifully until I started welding... The roof warped pretty bad and it took me two days of sanding bondo to get it looking like a roof again. It's probably 1/4 inch thick in places, if not more. I welded the seam all the way around in little more than spot weld increments, but it didn't matter, the roof warps incredibly easily. I also applied seam sealer to the other side of the weld (inside the car) Take one of those little hand held propane torches with you on your next trip to the junk yard.....heat the center of a decent sized roof and see just how little heat it takes to warp.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
fantastic. I cut out the donor roof and it seems my template needed some tweaking. A tad more grinding and it should fit nicely. Anyone recommend a super strong epoxy? That was suggested and its sounding like a good idea. I was going to spot it like and 1/8 of an inch in 4 places but that sounds dangerous now.
 

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>Anyone recommend a super strong epoxy? That was
>suggested and its sounding like a good idea.

Careful, I'd check with a tech inspector first. I don't think epoxy meets the requirements in the rule book, but I could be mistaken.

FYI, in one of my Eclipses I simply cut an aluminum panel about 1" oversize, and screwed it down every 3" with stainless sheet metal screws (and lots of silicone to keep the rain out). I didn't look too bad, and never once was it questioned at Tech.

Good Luck,
Dennis Martin
[email protected]
 

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To avoid the warping, you need to learn a technique the restoration folks use called hammer welding. They weld an inch or so, then hammer the weld flat while it's still molten with a body hammer and dolly...weld another inch...hammer...weld...hammer...brazing is commonly used, because of the lower heat requirement.

Done correctly, it produces an almost invisible joint that needs only a small application of surface putty.

Of course this could delay your rally car project by a couple of months... :)

BW
 

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I would imagine if you use the right stuff, adhesives would be fine... Some new cars are assembled with glue, I saw a special on the t.v. where they showed them gluing the roof assembly and the rear quarters on at the factory.

Gabe
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Any last words before I do this today? :) I am going to spot weld it and see how bad it gets I guess. Then seal the rest with bondo or epoxy then bondo or something.
 

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After installing the cage and tying it to the shell - I overlapped 24 ga. satin coat and fastened it with a combination of sheet metal screws and steel pop rivets - every 1.5" or so - working carefully to avoid wrinkles. No warping and seems very stiff. I haven't "finished" it with bondo yet. I don't expect it to look very pretty but I'm sure it's more than strong enough.

Robin
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Good news. I welded it in and not a sign of warping :) I havent finished welding but so far no warp. Thanks for all the info.
 
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