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Thread: Camber recommendation

  1. #1

    Default Camber recommendation

    I've just installed gravel spec suspension on a Fiesta ST for Prepared category rallycross. Mostly firm to loose dirt...with gravel rally tires.

    The new suspension has considerable front camber adjustment available and while maintaining required clearances I can adjust to as much as -3.5 degrees. My question is how much is desirable? I've never had this much adjustment available before so have no experience with it. Caster however is not adjustable due to shock tower rules in Prepared.

    In asphalt autoX I can generally use as much camber as I can get. But I don't know if dirt is the same.

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  3. #2
    100 K right 2 Perry's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by WAM View Post
    I've just installed gravel spec suspension on a Fiesta ST for Prepared category rallycross. Mostly firm to loose dirt...with gravel rally tires.

    The new suspension has considerable front camber adjustment available and while maintaining required clearances I can adjust to as much as -3.5 degrees. My question is how much is desirable? I've never had this much adjustment available before so have no experience with it. Caster however is not adjustable due to shock tower rules in Prepared.

    In asphalt autoX I can generally use as much camber as I can get. But I don't know if dirt is the same.
    I have little experience with this too, but recall that dirt is all about tire edges and asphalt is all about contact area. I would guess it's not a situation where max camber would be best. I'd throw it to the max both directions for some fun runs and note if it under or over steers as an indication of the grip change at the front.

  4. #3
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
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    you have the stock ST knuckles, so the car remains very low?

    After running the VW for a long time, I remain a bit concerned about FWD cars popping driveshafts if you change the suspension geometry too much.

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  6. #4

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    What brand and model gravel spec suspension did you install? Curious as I want to do the same, Hopefully not Reiger $$$$

  7. #5
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
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    I have the M-sport Bilstein damper/spring kit on my as yet unfinished build. Like college, I seem to be dragging it out a bit more than ideal

    They were on the order of $3k a few years back.

  8. #6

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    Can you please tell me where you purchased these?

  9. #7

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    My Fiesta ST gravel spec suspension is from Cusco, imported, adapted and installed by Yawsport in California. Am currently running stock height but have more droop than I need, so am limiting it.

    Yawsport fits Cusco gravel spec suspension to several cars. He machines several of his own parts to complete the kit.

  10. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by bentmettle View Post
    you have the stock ST knuckles, so the car remains very low?

    After running the VW for a long time, I remain a bit concerned about FWD cars popping driveshafts if you change the suspension geometry too much.
    Yes...the car is currently stock height. But the Cusco/Yawsport suspension I mentioned brought so much droop the front CV joints locked up on the lift. Initially I fit droop limit straps to prevent that, but now I'm adjusting shock lengths etc, for a better fix.

  11. #9
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
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    I can't remember if the ST struts are shorter, or if the knuckles are offset like the rear beam, or both.

    Did both sides lock, or just the PAX side? I think it's the shorter of the two isn't it?

    I pulled mine apart monkeying with the struts. What a pain in the neck to put back togther.

  12. #10

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    You know...I'm not sure. I was working on the pass side, but I think I checked both sides as I was installing limit straps to protect the CVs. As to ST vs NA, I have no idea. Have no familiarity with the NA.

    Nice thing about this suspension is it's double adjustable. So last night I raised the spring perch an inch, but independently shortened the shock an inch. So no net effect, but I now have one inch less rebound and one additional inch of jounce. So I can now remove the limit strap. Based on speed bump testing I think I have poor jounce travel. I can do a little more of this range adjustment, but perhaps I'll have to lift the ride height some. I've read that monotubes give up a little stroke compared to twin tubes due to the in-line gas pocket. So I may not have the max travel I'd like.

    In fact, I'll make it a question for you rally guys. Given limited shock travel compared to off-road rigs, do you still try for equal jounce and droop travel or do you sacrifice droop travel to get additional jounce? RallyX courses are only smooth in the morning.
    Last edited by WAM; 12-16-2019 at 08:35 AM.

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