OpenLight Rebuild / repair plans
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Thread: OpenLight Rebuild / repair plans

  1. #1
    100 oversquare right
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    Default OpenLight Rebuild / repair plans

    Finally about ready to start Repairing / rebuilding Betsy ..

    I was thinking of maybe doing things backwards .. starting at the rear diff moving towards the motor.

    I would take this further to the point of Starting at the Tires to Rims >> suspension >. half shaft >. rear diff, but i have 2 sets of JVABs, 16 Turbo legacy Rims, Tires, and RS 2.5 brakes ..

    Anywho The plan :

    I have 2 of the older 80s Subaru Plated Rear Diffs Planning on getting a rebuild kit and getting it rebuilt with a high break away force.

    Still not sure for the Center Diff. Foolishly trying to find a 5 speed DCCD (really just the center not the transmission) As i have a 2002 Outback transmission with what i believe is the tightest gearing you can find in a pick n pull. Other options are the 20kg subaru center diff , I've got one Japanese contact . my other idea is to try and contact i think its Barra motorsports in UK , who can "Tune a viscous diff" so i could send them my current center and get it set for rally.

    Transmission is that outback.

    Then there's the motor but i'm less concerned about that. figure i'll see how much $$$ i've wasted and maybe keep the motor cheaper (not much money left afer buying diapers) some delta cams + gorilla intake and call it a day. maybe switch to a stand alone ECU or WRX so some basic tuning can be done.

    This should make my car much more fun than how it is with the stock center and a viscous rear end.
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

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  3. #2
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
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    remind me what happened to your car, or what state it's in.

    After about 29 rallies, we sort of wore out a lot of the Jetta, too.

  4. #3
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    Broke my front Diff start of 2012 season, and after the season i blew up the motor.

    I was playing with the car behind my house (used to live next BLM land) Rods bent (one is wedged into the block) and it broke like a softball sized hole in the block itself. Heads were fine (somehow)

    Car was never tuned, and ran off the 1.8L radiator and did summer rallies.. the motor came from someone who did a WRX swap (cost me $300!!) so *shrugs* not really a big loss.
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

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  6. #4
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
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    My current experience is that I bit off a bit too much with the Jetta rebuild. I decided to switch transmission types, but also that I should do a LSD in the new transmission, and new final drive in it. The internal work killed my momentum.

    You might consider keeping your rebuild so that you're only working on one thing at a time that keeps the vehicle inop - get the engine replaced, then do the trans, then the rear diff, etc. It may or may not be helpful for you.

    Tearing down to scratch and starting over is a bear.

  7. #5

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    I'm sure Alex knows a thing or two about momentum, considering his car went out of commission in 2012 and he's just getting back up to speed?
    Good place to get started: Rally University

  8. #6
    100 oversquare right
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    Quote Originally Posted by A1337STI View Post

    I was playing with the car behind my house (used to live next BLM land) Rods bent (one is wedged into the block) and it broke like a softball sized hole in the block itself.
    Curious, was it number 1 that blew? I've had that hole in the block several times and it's always been the #1 Rod.
    Last edited by Don Kennedy; 04-21-2016 at 09:05 AM.

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by dunhamr1 View Post
    I'm sure Alex knows a thing or two about momentum, considering his car went out of commission in 2012 and he's just getting back up to speed?
    still thanks for the tip on biting off more than i can chew. I'll try and keep the tinkering to a minimum. on the rear diff i literally have a stack of them, so if i fail to make any progress on the mechanical diff one, i can just use the viscous one instead. (currently installed)

    Or maybe i know about a lack of Momentum hehehe j/k

    Driver side Front Piston er Rod that got wedged in there. is that the #1? if so , then yes.
    does subaru put in weak rods for #1? lol or maybe there is less lubrication / less cooling for that position ?

    Oh yeah, i think an oil cooler should go into the rebuild,
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

  10. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by A1337STI View Post

    Driver side Front Piston er Rod that got wedged in there. is that the #1? if so , then yes.
    does subaru put in weak rods for #1? lol or maybe there is less lubrication / less cooling for that position ?
    No, that's #2. #1 is front passenger side.

  11. #9

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    20kg is overkill for Open Light. Stick with the 4kg unless you are going turbocharged.
    Grant Hughes - 1985 Merkur XR$TI Group 5
    rally.build
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  12. #10
    50 caution yump
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    Cusco 1.5 way front and rear diffs, don't worry about the center.
    #542 - 1991 Subaru Legacy Open Class

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