Best Brake Pads for Rally - Page 2
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Thread: Best Brake Pads for Rally

  1. #11
    100 oversquare right
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    Jun 2006
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    Reno, NV
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    Never heard that explanation before for a booster delete...

    What if you want increased feel and sensitivity but you don't want a Crazy High amount of Effort?

    Is there a solution to get the braking system there?

    Course right now i have a soft pedal that doesn't do much (My brakes are terrible btw, horrible) I've got the stock booster and MC designed for the smallest brake package . and then i upgraded to RS 2.5 calipers front and rear (my rear was drum before)

    Figured just going to the RS 2.5 stock master cylinder + booster would get me back to normal ... but I'd like to learn about other options and consider them.

    seems like the correct method would be determine the size / volume of each brake caliper and some fancy math to calculate master cylinder size?
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

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  3. #12

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    I deleted the boost from our 05 RS. Dropped to the smallest MC (7/8" I think) I could find and adjusted the fulcrum on the brake pedal. Still using oem RS hardware. Works for me.
    Simon Wright
    Owner/Driver USUK Racing - Home of the USUK Racing LED Light Bars!

    North America Rally Map

  4. #13
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    damn ... so its possible all i need to do is adjust the fulcrum on the brake pedal ?

    I've got the 13/16" master cylinder and i believe it has 4 lines running out of it ... I was thinking there's not enough fluid in there to properly work my brakes .. but i never knew about the brake pedal fulcrum, and that its adjustable...

    Basically i don't know crap about my braking system.. at all...
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

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  6. #14

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    Well, "adjustable" in that I drilled a new pivot hole a centimeter or so in the right direction. I used a 4-line MC too but plugged one of them. With the remaining 3 lines, 1 each went to the front wheels and the last one was routed into the cabin, through an adjustable brake bias valve, a staging brake and then into a T to split to the rear wheels. Of course the ABS was deleted too so I pretty much replumbed the brake lines...





    Edit: Here's a tip I developed. Get some heavy duty solid copper electric wire. Stuff that'll hold its shape. Then use lengths of that to map out the brake lines. Carefully remove and then, on the bench, use it as guide to shape the actual brake lines.
    Last edited by simoniac; 02-24-2015 at 12:24 PM.
    Simon Wright
    Owner/Driver USUK Racing - Home of the USUK Racing LED Light Bars!

    North America Rally Map

  7. #15
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    Dec 2001
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    Reading, PA, USA.
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    Curious, Simon. Do you still have the ECU down there on the floor/firewall (stock location)?

  8. #16

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    Yes, we do. And Kieran uses the cover plate as a foot rest.
    Simon Wright
    Owner/Driver USUK Racing - Home of the USUK Racing LED Light Bars!

    North America Rally Map

  9. #17
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    Dec 2001
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    Reading, PA, USA.
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    FWIW, We moved ours up to where the glove box used to be. I felt it was too vulnerable a location if the passengers wheel took a hit and collapsed the A arm back far enough for the tire to hit the firewall (or whatever you would call that section).

  10. #18
    Zero Cents!
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Oxford, Penna.
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    FWIW: Our ECU has been relocated as well, and is in the dash, where the airbag used to live.

  11. #19

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    Good idea. Although I imagine that if you've smooshed your front right wheel hard enough to damage the ECU I think you got a lot of other problems too.
    Simon Wright
    Owner/Driver USUK Racing - Home of the USUK Racing LED Light Bars!

    North America Rally Map

  12. #20

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    Mine is relocated as well.



    Simon: Can you post a pic of where you drilled the new pivot hole?

    Alex: What pads are you currently running?

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