Hydraulic Handbrakes, who makes a good one? - Page 3
Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 21 to 30 of 30

Thread: Hydraulic Handbrakes, who makes a good one?

  1. #21
    50 caution yump
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Pittsburgh, PA
    Posts
    725

    Default

    Any hockey fans in here? Perfect video for this thread....

    Last edited by czwalga; 01-27-2015 at 12:28 PM.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    SpecialStage.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #22

    Default

    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10241

    is fine, basically what we've used for years. The version with no included master is cheaper but not in stock.

    I use Girling masters almost always, although have used AP. That's not a place to save money. Girlings aren't that expensive anyway.

    Also I have used and like the bungee cord. It's self-adjusting! Still, don't rely on it. Always jack the car cross-slope and/or against a rock.

    If you have an active-diffed Evo or STi you'll have to make a bracket for the "open" switch that the OEM handbrake has. I actually put them on a button on top of the handle so I could selectively disable (or not disable) the diff.

    ACP

  4. #23
    400 flat to crest
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    2007 S.126th ST. Seattle, WA. 98168, USA.
    Posts
    5,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MConte05 View Post
    Christ. I respond in a thread with some info that I *THINK* will help the OP and you seem to think I'm running around spewing I am a world renowned expert. I offer my thoughts, my experiences, but I don't claim to be an expert.

    Your friends seem to believe you are and you and a few other fan bois seem to delight in flipping shit towards anybody who has done stuff for 20-30 years and ridicule the fawk out of them when they take time to give good well grounded answers.
    So you could see how I'd make such a mistake.
    John Vanlandingham
    Sleezattle, WA, USA
    www.rallyrace.net/jvab
    www.rallyanarchy.com

    Telephone +1 206 431 9696
    Rememeber the time zone difference

    Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

  5. Remove Advertisements
    SpecialStage.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #24
    400 flat to crest
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    2007 S.126th ST. Seattle, WA. 98168, USA.
    Posts
    5,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Andrew Comrie Picard View Post
    https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...sp?RecID=10241

    is fine, basically what we've used for years. The version with no included master is cheaper but not in stock.

    I use Girling masters almost always, although have used AP. That's not a place to save money. Girlings aren't that expensive anyway.

    Also I have used and like the bungee cord. It's self-adjusting! Still, don't rely on it. Always jack the car cross-slope and/or against a rock.

    If you have an active-diffed Evo or STi you'll have to make a bracket for the "open" switch that the OEM handbrake has. I actually put them on a button on top of the handle so I could selectively disable (or not disable) the diff.

    ACP
    I've used a number of different masters, almost all are virtual copies of the old 1950s version of Girlings master including most Japanese clutch masters made either Akebono or Tokico, but they hard anodize the bores and the rubber seals they use are more tolerant of nasty brake fluids...

    But since I'm not an expert on this, just done it a few dozen times, my friend Paulinho who is an expert pointed out over on the good forum that the design internally is kinda dumb on the Girling and Girling clones..
    The outlet is in the middle---and the one at the end is the inlet---over 90% of the guys I have watched plumb these in, handbrake or dual master, always plumb them backwards first time..
    Seem to make sense if you push the rod ----> that was and move the piston ---> that way that the fluid wants to come out the end that is ----> that way, not double back
    Girling and Girling clones for those who know everything.







    Here's a Wilwood that makes sense.





    I doubt Paulinho will waste the time to try and explain things , last we talked he was getting tired of the flood of poor info and assertions..and the derailing by people who just want to feel good about chiming in.
    He doesn't understand that its all about feeling good and all opinions are equal...
    But it makes sense to me just looking
    John Vanlandingham
    Sleezattle, WA, USA
    www.rallyrace.net/jvab
    www.rallyanarchy.com

    Telephone +1 206 431 9696
    Rememeber the time zone difference

    Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

  7. #25
    100 oversquare right bentmettle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    Posts
    3,470

    Default

    I've had the .7" diameter Wilwood in the car for the past 10 years.

    Only works when both rear wheels are still attached to the car, but that's only been an issue a few times.


    The biggest error I made installation was not using a banjo fitting on the inlet side. The hardline is fine, but ugly. A banjo and short length of AN-3 to the hardline would have improved cleanliness for me.

    Like everyone else with a VW, we just left it once it worked.
    Last edited by bentmettle; 01-27-2015 at 04:59 PM.

  8. #26
    Uh Oh, UH OH, UHH OHHH!!! johnhuebbe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    St. Peters, MO, US.
    Posts
    1,818

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Vanlandingham View Post
    Your friends seem to believe you are...
    Wow, that is so laughable.
    Behold the POWER of cheese! www.huebberally.com
    Organizer: 100aw.org & perryville.100aw.org/ | Rally Cars: 1970 VW Beetle & 1991 Subaru Legacy

  9. #27
    400 flat to crest
    Join Date
    Dec 2001
    Location
    2007 S.126th ST. Seattle, WA. 98168, USA.
    Posts
    5,777

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnhuebbe View Post
    Wow, that is so laughable.
    Well that's what I saw when the guy wrote what he wrote which clearly implied that...especially when the problem pointed out were so seriously bad and such touchiness being displayed--its somewhere here, whatever.
    John Vanlandingham
    Sleezattle, WA, USA
    www.rallyrace.net/jvab
    www.rallyanarchy.com

    Telephone +1 206 431 9696
    Rememeber the time zone difference

    Vive le Prole-le-ralliat

  10. #28
    50 caution yump
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    660

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by johnhuebbe View Post
    Wow, that is so laughable.
    Ain't that the truth. Although I do still enjoy seeing how shocked I can make you guys when I mention what I do/don't do.
    #542 - 1991 Subaru Legacy Open Class

  11. #29
    50 caution yump Cosworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Banbury, England
    Posts
    898

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Vanlandingham View Post
    I've used a number of different masters, almost all are virtual copies of the old 1950s version of Girlings master including most Japanese clutch masters made either Akebono or Tokico, but they hard anodize the bores and the rubber seals they use are more tolerant of nasty brake fluids...

    But since I'm not an expert on this, just done it a few dozen times, my friend Paulinho who is an expert pointed out over on the good forum that the design internally is kinda dumb on the Girling and Girling clones..
    The outlet is in the middle---and the one at the end is the inlet---over 90% of the guys I have watched plumb these in, handbrake or dual master, always plumb them backwards first time..
    Seem to make sense if you push the rod ----> that was and move the piston ---> that way that the fluid wants to come out the end that is ----> that way, not double back
    Girling and Girling clones for those who know everything.







    Here's a Wilwood that makes sense.





    I doubt Paulinho will waste the time to try and explain things , last we talked he was getting tired of the flood of poor info and assertions..and the derailing by people who just want to feel good about chiming in.
    He doesn't understand that its all about feeling good and all opinions are equal...
    But it makes sense to me just looking
    That's right John, 100% with you on this one. I've tried many times to explain but it gets old when you constantly get people come up with bro'science saying that they saw some cuz do it that way and always worked great or whatever the case. And then ACP with a confusing/contradicting sentence saying ...girling is great, but has used AP, then not a place to save, but girling still cheap. Someone reading that might end up thinking that Girling is as good as AP but just cheaper => more confusing info on the net that people will use when "chiming in" somewhere else.

    In the end yes the Girling style is an old POS that causes more troubles than what its worth but they still work when sorted. Now the big issue with them is because of their messed up design, the machining is a bit more involved and those of the likes that come in the OBP or ksport kits do come from the far east. And that means a very porous cast and with the machining precision of an angle grinder. Even the willywood's suck. Not one single pro team uses them, and not a single brake manufacturer/engineer recommends or even looks at data from them.

    Want good and affordable stick to Tilton's.
    P. Ferreira

  12. #30
    50 caution yump Cosworth's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Banbury, England
    Posts
    898

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Carthik View Post
    I've actually spent some time on the phone with OBP Motorsports. Their products are made in the UK.
    Carthik
    OBP doesnt make master cylinders.
    P. Ferreira

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •