Power solutions for GoPro cameras? - Page 2
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Thread: Power solutions for GoPro cameras?

  1. #11
    NASA Rally Sport grassroots!!! Anders Green's Avatar
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    If only there were a bunch of power options already designed for your camera system...


    http://replayxd.com/products/power/



    It's what Robby Gordon uses all over his Dakar truck:



    But... this post is probably useless to you, unless you're thinking about FUTURE purchases.

    (I have one, it's super waterproof and tough, loads of different mounts... including METAL options.)

    Anders
    NASA Rally Sport Director
    Your question is probably answered in Rally University.

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  3. #12
    pressing on tirelessly
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe Average View Post
    Another problem regarding remote starting of the camera...unless you drop $500.00 or so for a new, "Black Go Pro" with a remote, you can't turn them on 10 seconds before a stage start if you mount them outside the car. You have to push a button on the camera to turn them on. Not easy when your strapped in and trying to explain to a stage start crew which button to push.
    Actually, that was something I was looking in to. I borrowed a Hero3+ and I can remote start it via a wifi command. The problem is, the Hero decides the wifi network info and I can't tell if there's any way to change it. So near's I can tell you'd have to have your wifi remote switch to each GoPro's network in sequence, rather than being able to send them all start commands at once. That's not that big a deal unless it takes a few seconds to negotiate each time.

  4. #13
    International Rallying Icon Brian J's Avatar
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    One remote will control multiple cameras.
    -Brian Johnson

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  6. #14
    Dramamine is for DramaQueens Morison's Avatar
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    I'm a big fan of the Drift Innovations cameras. While they are essentially one generation back from the latest and greatest go-pro, they are much easier to use. I had a friend build a 5v power converter with several mini-usb extenesons and I simply plug in the onboard cameras and run them on full time power. never have to worry about them going dead.
    Keith Morison
    Morison Communications

  7. #15
    100 oversquare right
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    Sony I-touch camera does 1080 P @ 60 fps , has a line in for intercom audio, AND has a remote. all for $99 when i bought it. \

    maybe it was kodak

    I'm too cheap to go the cool go-pro route ...

    https://www.google.com/shopping/prod...d=0CPEDEPMCMAA

    guess its 120 now, but this one may be a better version compared to mine.
    Last edited by A1337STI; 01-05-2015 at 04:35 PM.
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

  8. #16
    200 square left Gordon S.'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morison View Post
    I'm a big fan of the Drift Innovations cameras. While they are essentially one generation back from the latest and greatest go-pro, they are much easier to use. I had a friend build a 5v power converter with several mini-usb extenesons and I simply plug in the onboard cameras and run them on full time power. never have to worry about them going dead.
    This. I've used the snot out of an older Drift HD170 and now have an HD Ghost and love them. Hooked up to a hard wired 12V power and a 32gb card you've got 8 hours of solid remote-activated recording. Recorded every single stage at Targa Newfoundland 2011 without missing a single second, each stage its on video. Standard 1/4-20 camera mount for lots of mounting options. Rotating lens which is HUGE for mounting flexibility. The newer cameras don't need any special pigtails for audio input which is nice. They don't come with a true waterproof housing like the GoPro but for an in-car I don't care about that. The Ghost series have a two way remote which actually shows (via big can't-miss-it LEDs) recording status which is nice too.

    I have started to power my HD Ghost off a 9000mAh cellphone booster battery rather than the hardwired power to eliminate alternator noise on the video. That could easily be resolved with better power wiring though. I have no idea how long the booster battery lasts but I've left it on entire days and not killed it so that's good enough for me.
    Atlantic Canadian Region Rallysport: http://www.rallyeast.ca - Ledwidge Lookoff Rally http://www.lookoffrally.com
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  9. #17
    Jason McDaniel
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    If you are having power supply issues due to alternator noise, you can use a power conditioner to isolate the sensitive electronics from the chassis wiring.

    I've used this part from Navone Engineering. http://davidnavone.com/product/n-ip1...-power-supply/

    I've got one in the SAAB for the rally computer and another in a street Miata to isolate the audio. They are expensive as far as isolators go, but they survive the vibrations of the SAAB and have been perfect.

  10. #18
    100 oversquare right
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    you can also try a really cheap noise filter designed for car sterio.. around $15 and should fix the issue, if not keep the receipt should be returnable.
    Welcome to Rally Addicts anonymous! Hi I'm Alex Rademacher, and i have a Rally problem..... 23 rallies and counting....

  11. #19

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    While it would be nice to free up the USB port to use it for plugging into the intercom, I don't like the idea of the Switronix product. The moment you stall the car or turn it off you kill the power to the camera because you've removed the redundancy of the camera battery. I have my 4 GoPros plugged in and charging with a USB cable that runs back to a hub. The cases outside are the sealed ones but with a hole drilled out just big enough for the cable to plug into the camera.

  12. #20
    Open AWD Extraordinaire! EricW's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ryolse View Post
    While it would be nice to free up the USB port to use it for plugging into the intercom, I don't like the idea of the Switronix product. The moment you stall the car or turn it off you kill the power to the camera because you've removed the redundancy of the camera battery. I have my 4 GoPros plugged in and charging with a USB cable that runs back to a hub. The cases outside are the sealed ones but with a hole drilled out just big enough for the cable to plug into the camera.
    Pics of that setup? How do you get the cameras in and out? Or do you just do USB transfer to get the data off of them?
    Eric Wages
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