I broke one at STPR and did about 10-15 miles + a transit. It had a tough time getting uphill but it did it.
Another at RWV, couldn't get up a sharper uphill, but we managed a few stage miles and a long transit after getting yanked up the hill.
Super special at Ojibwe, it was slipping more than I'd like, and we got far enough to change it out.
The next time it popped, at SnoDrift, we had nothing, which was the cue to finally get in there and recheck preload.
When it broke on Chad, it had been re-built so it should have been working mostly correct at that point.
I like plate difffs. I hate VW axles.
to the OP:
What car are you asking about?
It's a lot of resources to test multiple configurations. You almost have to borrow cars.
Diffs are tunable. Asking how they affect cars is asking what shocks do to handling. If you want less aggressive lock, you can use different ramp angles, or tune the clutch pack to 80% or 60% lock, change preload, etc.
If you have the choice to buy a reasonably priced clutch diff, and will be able to keep up with at least every 5 events or so, get it. A torque biasing diff is not going to work properly when both wheels are spinning in loose gravel or snow.